National Geographic Beyond the Summit The Everest Environmental Expedition
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I am the place with only three colors- |
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blue of sky, |
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white of snow, |
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black of rock. |
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I am the place where the temperature |
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...and where the air |
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I am the place where life, |
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I am the mountain so high |
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although many have tried. |
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To the Tibetans, I am Chomolungma |
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To the Nepalese I am Sagarmatha |
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And to the rest of the world, |
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9 American mountaineers depart |
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bound for the Kingdom of Nepal |
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to join the Inventa Everest 2000 |
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They will team up with |
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ever assembled for |
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Their goal is to unburden Mt. Everest |
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expedition garbage |
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and to summit |
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Here the Westerners |
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and make their final preparations. |
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Bob Hoffman, a former airline manager, |
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and mastermind behind the half-million |
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Apa Sherpa is responsible for |
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and overseeing the climbing logistics. |
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Pemba Nurbu will help coordinate |
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Professional mountain guide |
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will lead the 9 member climbing team... |
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Each member has paid their way |
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Sometimes called "Mr. Everest" |
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in his 10 previous climbs, |
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Apa will climb this year for |
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Apa combs the back alleys of Kathmandu |
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in search of materials |
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Rice, incense, kata scarves, |
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and prayer flags |
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The prayer flags are gonna |
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and we'll have 5 lines of |
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I still have mine |
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Prayer flags are thought to |
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The blue is the sky... |
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clouds... |
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The red is for fire... |
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The red is fire... |
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Yellow. |
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And also each one has a prayer on it, |
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and the Lung-la horse is |
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the fast-carrier of the prayers |
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...and it's believed that |
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the flags are sending those prayers |
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so that's the significance of them. |
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Before the expedition |
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Apa must bring the ceremony items |
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However, Rimpoches are not always easy |
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Finally, after many turns, |
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Rimpoches are Buddhist holy men |
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considered to be the reincarnates |
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The traditional tea is served, |
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63 year-old Sherman Bull |
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on a dawn run at the Monkey Temple. |
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Should the surgeon from Connecticut |
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he will be the oldest human being |
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This will be his 4th attempt. |
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Having completed their preparations, |
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...the one-hour flight into |
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and the beginning of the trek |
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Coupled with gusty winds |
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that requires good brakes... |
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...Lukla airstrip gives even |
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reservations about landing here... |
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That was some ride... |
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"Holy shit, holy shit, |
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From here they will walk |
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Porters and yaks shoulder |
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Each porter carries up to 70-pounds... |
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...everything is instinctively weighed |
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Mt. Everest lies on the border |
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in the Sagarmatha National Park. |
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The word "Sherpa" does not mean |
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as it is often mistranslated |
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It simply means |
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referring to |
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The Sherpa people have been migrating |
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from Tibet for over 500 years... |
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With a population of 1000, |
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Namche Bazar is the largest village |
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Even today, Tibetans come weekly |
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to ply their wares |
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The team will return here |
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carrying all the collected |
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Canadian, Jamie Ross is |
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the environmental director |
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Ross was also a member of |
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We are working with a group here |
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called the Sagamatha Pollution |
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and they are a group organized to oversee |
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environmental issues in this park |
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The most important thing |
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is have a major impact on the clean-up |
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and on the mountain... |
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Get a lot of trash off... |
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so that other people will do the same. |
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The SPCC will work with the 17 teams |
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Each team must provide accurate counts |
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The government requires that teams |
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or lose a 4000 dollar deposit. |
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By current Himalayan standards, |
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It will utilize 200 yaks... to carry |
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and 1 ton of food to sustain |
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The Tengboche monastery lies |
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approximately half-way between |
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The Monastery was established in 1916, |
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and is one of the more renowned |
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Here the team rests |
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The team awakens to |
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The presence of snow at this elevation |
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On the tenth and final day |
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and just eight hours walking distance |
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the team reaches the Sherpa Memorial... |
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It is a very significant place, to, |
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because this is very special place |
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who died on Everest |
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as part of the Buddhist religion, |
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we have to cremate on mountain, |
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which you can see the whole mountains... |
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running river... that feels... |
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we believe in that... |
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Do You Have friends here? |
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sure... Yeah... |
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It's very spiritual... |
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It's a chance to reflect... |
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It's at this point for me |
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Seems to be a gateway for me... |
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Where the trek finally ends |
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and now we are starting into |
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This is a very solemn place... |
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It's where our humanity meets the top |
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because all these stonework's |
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on the mountain shows the effort |
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Well, this is a mostly... |
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But these days, they are |
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I knew Scott Fischer a little... |
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He was one of the toughest |
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When you think he and Rob Hall |
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it means that anybody |
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It reminds us of our mortality |
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and reminds us that we have to know |
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and try and always make |
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Not go beyond our capabilities... |
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Everest is worth climbing, but not |
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There is a young Sherpa boy... |
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There was only three teams |
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And we were going on up to Camp 3 and |
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and he was getting nearer to the camp |
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And he fell, and we watched him fall, |
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Leaving a trail of blood... |
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By the time he hit the bottom of |
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And it was the first time we had seen |
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And it always reminds us just |
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I always just come up here |
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There's too many up here... too many... |
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While certainly no 5 star hotel |
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Base Camp is a virtual Shangri- La. |
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Home sweet Home... |
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Located on the Northwestern edge |
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and situated against the West |
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this piece of communal real estate |
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rock- slides and falling ice seracs... |
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Apa. I'm save arrived... |
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Sun's out it's a gorgeous day... |
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Be a hell of a lot better |
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I was having a good time... |
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I hope my bags unpacked you |
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We told them to take it back down |
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Too much weight |
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trying to get all your stuff in... |
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I was expecting to have my tent up |
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I don't see my tent... |
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Uh, Bob, where's my tent? |
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Each climbing season, |
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The only materials used are |
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that are churned out by |
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While comparatively safe, |
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life on the lateral moraine of |
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It's hard, it's cold and it moves. |
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A 5 foot per day glacial flow slowly |
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agitates years of biological waste |
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A continual contamination of ground |
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for the people living at Base Camp |
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The human waste problem at Base Camp |
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is hard to distinguish from the |
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What we've found so far is that |
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are showing moderate contamination |
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And fecal coliform is an indication |
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Whether it's by humans or yaks, |
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But what we are finding is that |
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some areas that people use for water |
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and that makes us, obviously, |
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be more careful with the water |
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And, uh, trying to make sure that |
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is definitely contained and treated |
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so that we're not contributing to |
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At this elevation |
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the amount of oxygen in the air |
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which makes the actual act of |
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The Sherpas live at elevation |
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which naturally allows them |
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what many people from sea level cannot. |
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We've hired an additional |
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to concentrate on the clean-up effort. |
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Our plan for camp 2, |
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once we get it established |
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as much of the exposed garbage |
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So far reports from the teams |
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have indicated that we have a very |
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It's going make finding this garbage |
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The Sherpas will then continue up |
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to remove some of the hundreds of |
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that are still up there as well as |
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Before proceeding beyond Base Camp, |
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each expedition conducts |
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The puja asks the spirits |
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and tolerance of Human activities... |
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Asks for luck, health, fair weather, |
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The puja is conducted by |
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The alter is built of stone |
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This is the heart of the worship site |
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The climbing gear |
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This is so the smoke |
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may purify the crampons, |
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ice axes and ropes so vital |
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On the morning of the puja, |
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bring the sacramental offerings |
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Rice, incense, & beer, |
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Near the end of the day-long ceremony, |
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the center pole is raised to embrace |
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Finally everyone chants together |
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"Go up, may good fortune arise." |
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hang which is a rice beer, is shared by all members |
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of the expedition |
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Tomorrow the team will venture into |
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long acclimatization |
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Avalanches, falling ice seracs |
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and aluminum ladders precariously |
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are all hazards in |
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More climbers have perished |
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than on any other part |
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Even the summit. |
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Human beings do not perform well |
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due to the lack of oxygen. |
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An acclimatization-process |
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to adapt the body to the thin air |
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Time spent at the higher camps |
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to multiply which in turn will carry |
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The climbing team continue |
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while the Sherpas push up to Camp 4 |
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Although the Khumbu icefall is regarded |
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the Lhotse face is no casual walk |
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It is a 4000 foot near-vertical |
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Like the icefall, |
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only increase the danger |
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Because the wind-blown South Col is accessible, |
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we wanted to go up there and clean off |
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that have been left... and mainly, |
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that no one wanted to bring down |
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Some of them weigh up to |
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In Nepal, the average annual income |
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At twenty-five dollars |
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this man will make his income |
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Down the hill he will walk |
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worth $125 U.S. dollars. |
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Ask any Sherpa why he climbs, |
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"I climb today so my children |
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But how did the garbage come |
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The climb up Everest itself is |
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so cold and windy... that past climbers |
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They thought little about |
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The accumulation of garbage is simply |
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the past 40 years of climbers |
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and often hastily retreating. |
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This is Pemba speaking from Camp 2... |
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Base Camp, can you hear me? |
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Our Sherpas are going up to South Col |
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and starting to bring |
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And I'm going to scale here, |
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I'm going to send down |
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Because there are 9 Sherpas coming |
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and on the way back |
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some garbage and |
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OK. I understand. |
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It's possible for us to weight |
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Today's our rest day. |
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We're out looking for garbage and |
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That's not going to well, |
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because the snow- and ice-cap here at |
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Usually this is bare rock |
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but now it's covered with |
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so we're combing the area |
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A storm moves rapidly up |
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temporarily halting the |
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The climbers accompanied by |
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with the first full packs of |
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The remaining Sherpas will wait out |
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Once the weather clears, they will |
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All the trash and bottles that |
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must be weighed and logged, |
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to accurately compensate |
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As well as present |
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The Sagarmatha Pollution |
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...and on the oxygen bottles, |
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so if it's one 15-kilo bottle, |
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you get the same money by the weight. |
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So now can you say that one again? |
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I just wanna make sure that |
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Okay, so it's 15 kilograms... |
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Okay now but how many rupees |
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Camp IV to Base Camp is 3800 rupees. |
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I think most of |
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they're all belong for |
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Because we don't have education. |
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We have a good school in Kathmandu, |
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If we want to learn about, |
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engineering schools - |
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But, to the Sherpas |
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they are good for the mountain areas. |
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Because they are used to |
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They'd like to study about |
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but they don't have enough economic |
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So they are running for the Everest, |
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and other mountains, |
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Because, you know, this is my income... |
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After this, I have like 5 or 6 months |
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Because my son, I have 2 boys... |
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I have to look after all of them... |
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and I have to pay for the house rent... |
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And because of the expeditions and trekking, |
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we get a good job, to earn money, |
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they are very lucky, |
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Otherwise they stay in our village... |
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we don't have a good school |
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Sherpas are extremely |
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The families work in these units, |
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they will make a fairly substantial |
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Probably, in the end, more money that |
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Weather forecasting in the Himalaya |
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Expeditions rely on daily satellite |
00:35:03 |
Uh, we've got a weather report |
00:35:09 |
And that weather report is not good, |
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While the clean-up team of Sherpas |
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the subject at base camp is the |
00:35:32 |
We are looking at a good day and |
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1 day behind nine-hundred million |
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until we have a month of good days. |
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I think everyone realizes |
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we got only one summit in this group, |
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and if we put this much |
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we should wait for |
00:35:59 |
What's the downside of waiting at |
00:36:06 |
What you gain in acclimatization |
00:36:11 |
and the balance is not equal, |
00:36:15 |
and while you acclimatize |
00:36:19 |
you may have a little less |
00:36:21 |
when you get up to 4, you've grown |
00:36:25 |
At Base Camp your maintaining. |
00:36:27 |
But I am looking at the weather |
00:36:31 |
It has not been the weather I've seen |
00:36:36 |
Know that the disasters that have |
00:36:40 |
you've got bad weather, |
00:36:44 |
you're not going to get to the summit, |
00:36:47 |
If you have long lines of people |
00:36:51 |
and you get caught up in a cue more |
00:37:01 |
And you go up too high and your |
00:37:06 |
you're so beat up, you don't make it. |
00:37:17 |
Weeks of living and working at |
00:37:19 |
continue to take its toll |
00:37:22 |
Team member Rob Chang has fallen ill |
00:37:25 |
and has little choice but |
00:37:28 |
I've been climbing for 11 years. |
00:37:33 |
Going down, I know what it means. |
00:37:35 |
But like I said, I don't want to |
00:37:38 |
I'm not getting better... |
00:37:43 |
It's always a matter of judgment |
00:37:45 |
in terms of the time it takes |
00:37:50 |
Which is a finite process |
00:37:54 |
getting used to this altitude, |
00:37:56 |
Your body needs time to |
00:37:59 |
On the other hand, the other thing |
00:38:02 |
is there is a continuous, |
00:38:07 |
And so it's a balance of the time |
00:38:11 |
and get that done properly, |
00:38:14 |
and let the deterioration process get |
00:38:19 |
and then you have a net loss. |
00:38:20 |
Living at extreme altitude |
00:38:24 |
It's man wasn't made to live here |
00:38:28 |
there are no indigenous populations |
00:38:33 |
Part of the problems are that |
00:38:37 |
you mal-absorb fats, particularly |
00:38:44 |
with that you lose vigor. |
00:38:46 |
...and then the thing that |
00:38:48 |
the body begins to metabolize |
00:38:51 |
and that results in weakness, |
00:38:55 |
when you're climbing Everest... |
00:38:57 |
We do everything we can to |
00:38:59 |
we have huge high calorie meals... |
00:39:01 |
many of us take supplements of |
00:39:05 |
In fact, I've always thought I could |
00:39:08 |
and guarantee our participants |
00:39:11 |
There's no way you can maintain |
00:39:13 |
And that's we're sorta facing here |
00:39:33 |
Sherpas continue to make progress |
00:39:35 |
on cleaning up the high camps |
00:39:45 |
We have 324 oxygen bottles. |
00:39:48 |
Expecting another approximately |
00:39:53 |
Trash-wise, we brought a bunch of |
00:39:57 |
and that's been mostly food waste, |
00:40:03 |
there's some batteries, and the total |
00:40:11 |
We're picking up some of the oldest |
00:40:15 |
earlier teams which were helping out with cleaning-up |
00:40:18 |
didn't bring down |
00:40:21 |
All of the oxygen bottles that've |
00:40:25 |
and this particular bottle was |
00:40:30 |
The first team to go up was in 1952, |
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The leader, a gentleman by the name |
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reached the place we call The Balcony, |
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In other words, |
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They came very, very close, |
00:40:51 |
this is one of those bottles |
00:40:54 |
Or, in other words, |
00:40:57 |
that was ever dropped |
00:40:59 |
There were a number of |
00:41:02 |
We've all seen pictures of |
00:41:06 |
This is the exact bottle that Hillary |
00:41:13 |
This style of bottle was |
00:41:17 |
It was a military bottle that was |
00:41:21 |
After that all climbers were |
00:41:26 |
and they were privately manufactured. |
00:41:29 |
So we have 2 real antiques. |
00:41:35 |
Finally, after nearly 7 weeks, |
00:41:38 |
Bob Hoffman receives the weather |
00:41:42 |
the summit is clear... |
00:42:33 |
What this is giving you is |
00:42:38 |
at 2 liters, 3 liters, |
00:42:41 |
You'll probably find that you, up high, |
00:42:45 |
will wanna have your mask |
00:42:50 |
I'm kind of conflicted about it. |
00:42:52 |
On 1 hand, I find it very constricting. |
00:42:57 |
I feel as though I'm being asphyxiated. |
00:43:00 |
I wanna rip the mask off, and yet, |
00:43:05 |
my toes begin to warm up, |
00:43:11 |
And so, I think the benefits |
00:43:14 |
far out-weigh the negatives of |
00:43:27 |
This is the glamorous side of |
00:43:30 |
I was just checking E-mail |
00:43:34 |
and he says, Dad, be careful, |
00:43:37 |
And I thought, God, what am I doing |
00:43:41 |
I got a tear in my eye thinkin' |
00:43:42 |
I've got this 18-year-old kid |
00:43:45 |
And I have no intention of dying, |
00:43:49 |
I think not enough exposure is given |
00:43:53 |
because it really is in some ways |
00:43:56 |
because I don't think enough of us |
00:43:58 |
pay attention to what effect |
00:44:00 |
So I just think about the glamour |
00:44:06 |
It's good on the climbing. |
00:44:08 |
The anxieties and in some case |
00:44:16 |
On Sherm's 3rd Everest trip, |
00:44:18 |
one slip in the middle of the night |
00:44:23 |
I think we were just below the |
00:44:27 |
I don't know exactly what happened, |
00:44:32 |
I went down, and when you go down |
00:44:35 |
icy surface you begin to enjoy the |
00:44:41 |
A crevasse saved Sherm from falling |
00:44:46 |
Bob Boice witnessed Sherm's fall and |
00:44:50 |
along the icy balcony to reach him. |
00:44:53 |
Boice abandoned his own |
00:44:56 |
to short-rope his injured friend |
00:45:01 |
Others joined in the rescue effort, |
00:45:03 |
in what would be an excruciating |
00:45:12 |
Sherm was evacuated with severe, |
00:45:14 |
multiple injuries that would take |
00:47:44 |
Hoffman's team will be one of the |
00:47:48 |
Additional clean-up Sherpas will |
00:47:52 |
to do a final sweep of |
00:47:56 |
As long as we don't get any more snow |
00:48:00 |
I'm just concerned about more snow, |
00:48:02 |
because that could give us |
00:48:05 |
But if we don't get any more snow |
00:48:21 |
The wind is from the south... |
00:48:25 |
and it's never good when the clouds |
00:48:31 |
That's always what |
00:48:33 |
We normally get the winds off |
00:48:39 |
ah, easterly direction... |
00:48:44 |
And until that wind shifts, |
00:48:48 |
I think all of the waiting |
00:48:49 |
I mean it was hard for everybody, |
00:48:51 |
including the people who were |
00:48:54 |
but now we're up here and |
00:50:32 |
We still have a long way to go... |
00:50:35 |
I don't know if the weather's gonna |
00:50:39 |
But I mean who knows, |
00:50:42 |
the spirit of these mountains |
00:50:45 |
and if not, |
00:50:48 |
today might have been just |
00:50:52 |
The weather up here is a crap shoot, |
00:50:59 |
from here on out it's monsoon season, |
00:51:04 |
and give it a crack. |
00:52:01 |
So I want everyone into Camp 4 by |
00:52:07 |
We'll be hydrating and resting, |
00:52:12 |
somewhere between 10:00 and |
00:52:15 |
Climbing through the night... |
00:52:21 |
between 6 and 7 o'clock in the morning, |
00:52:25 |
and then back down to 4... |
00:52:31 |
back here to Base Camp, |
00:52:37 |
Chuck Huss and Dan Smith are stricken |
00:52:41 |
and will stay behind at Camp 4. |
00:52:47 |
Six American climbers and 12 Sherpas |
00:52:53 |
The team leaves the night before to |
00:52:57 |
to reach the summit and descend before |
00:53:03 |
For the next 7 hours, the team will |
00:53:22 |
As dawn breaks, the sun is out... |
00:53:24 |
but ominous clouds form below and |
00:53:43 |
Apa and 3 Sherpas are out in front, |
00:53:46 |
Apa fixes the rope lines up the 40-foot |
00:53:55 |
>From the summit the first |
00:54:03 |
Apa and three Sherpas went to the summit. |
00:54:20 |
Apa Sherpa summits Mt. Everest |
00:54:24 |
and establishes a world record... |
00:54:30 |
His moment of personal glory is |
00:54:33 |
back into the worsening storm, |
00:54:38 |
Nearing the Hillary step, |
00:54:40 |
Apa encounters Lily Leonard, |
00:54:45 |
All three will soon summit each |
00:54:54 |
The storm continues to intensify... |
00:55:00 |
This is Base Camp. |
00:55:01 |
How are you doing? Over. |
00:55:04 |
Complete white-out conditions here... |
00:55:09 |
I'm stuck in place... |
00:55:10 |
There's no Sherpa following me... |
00:55:24 |
At 11 AM and in the complete white-out, |
00:55:30 |
Pemba and 3 cleanup Sherpas descend, |
00:55:33 |
cleaning up discarded oxygen bottles |
00:55:38 |
Below the south summit, Bob Hoffman |
00:55:40 |
wisely decides to abandon |
00:55:44 |
Alone and with snow blindness |
00:55:47 |
he turns and descends toward |
00:55:54 |
500 feet below the summit Apa |
00:55:59 |
Unwilling to allow the storm |
00:56:02 |
Sherm pulls himself methodically |
00:56:06 |
Taking into consideration |
00:56:09 |
Apa convinces him to turn back |
00:56:21 |
Sherm and Apa is turning back... |
00:56:28 |
For those in Base Camp, |
00:56:31 |
to wait for confirmation that the team |
00:56:38 |
Bob Boice, alone at the south summit, |
00:56:40 |
calls in to report that his |
00:56:46 |
Hello Ben, it's Robert... Ran out of |
00:56:58 |
Jim Williams intercepts |
00:57:01 |
Boice, relax start breathing... |
00:57:07 |
It may take some time... |
00:57:18 |
...eventually finding Bob Boice |
00:57:27 |
Williams replaces the frozen tank and |
00:57:36 |
It has been 22 hours |
00:57:40 |
They now begin a 2-day descent |
00:58:18 |
In their final sweep of The upper |
00:58:21 |
the Sherpas will pack out |
00:58:23 |
more than 100 spent oxygen bottles |
00:59:16 |
I'm so proud of you, hon. |
00:59:21 |
Man, that was a bitch of a day |
00:59:25 |
what I wanna do. |
00:59:30 |
I'm 58-years-old, and it kicked the |
00:59:36 |
But coming down was really |
00:59:44 |
I mentioned to you that |
00:59:47 |
I had to take off my goggles, |
00:59:49 |
so I knew I was susceptible |
00:59:52 |
but I couldn't see outta them... |
00:59:55 |
And this blizzard, we had a white-out |
00:59:59 |
and so what I was having to do... is... |
01:00:05 |
and I clipped into a figure-8 |
01:00:10 |
where I could kinda see |
01:00:12 |
But I kept on stumbling into |
01:00:19 |
This frost-bite... |
01:00:23 |
after it happens... supposed to |
01:00:31 |
I mean I've never really |
01:00:33 |
but I knew at The Balcony that |
01:00:39 |
I'll be honest with you, |
01:00:41 |
I hope I don't... like, lose anything |
01:00:47 |
that wouldn't be good... |
01:00:52 |
you just don't realize how much |
01:00:54 |
until you lose them... |
01:01:03 |
Actually we get on the summit |
01:01:08 |
around 8 o'clock on the summit. |
01:01:11 |
First I went to the summit, |
01:01:17 |
then I come back to Hillary step |
01:01:22 |
then went back to the summit again. |
01:01:25 |
3 times. |
01:01:26 |
This time I want to get all the teams |
01:01:32 |
but the weather changed and |
01:01:39 |
So you see it as your job to |
01:01:42 |
On the top... I want to get all of them on the summit, |
01:01:49 |
The next thing you know, |
01:01:51 |
This guy, I'm tellin' ya... I just |
01:01:56 |
I can't say enough about him. |
01:02:00 |
Not just as a Sherpa, |
01:02:05 |
So he comes over the hill, and I'm |
01:02:10 |
"Sherm, I wanna get you to the summit |
01:02:15 |
And he said, "You know, I think, |
01:02:20 |
But then he said, "I dunno about |
01:02:24 |
He said, "I think you might die." |
01:02:26 |
And then he said the thing |
01:02:29 |
"I think a Sherpa might die doing it." |
01:02:35 |
I said, "Apa, I take your advice 100%. |
01:02:39 |
I would never put someone else's life |
01:02:44 |
I mean it's one thing if a climber |
01:02:47 |
that's somethin', but to take somebody |
01:02:51 |
there's no, no one has the right |
01:02:54 |
particularly on an egotistical |
01:02:57 |
I thought it over about |
01:02:59 |
"Apa, let's go down... |
01:03:02 |
And I gave up my dream, |
01:03:05 |
and I got a little emotional |
01:03:08 |
been trying to do this thing |
01:03:12 |
but... there are more important things |
01:03:17 |
I chose my family, |
01:03:57 |
Bob, are you gonna be dancing |
01:03:59 |
I don't think so... |
01:04:04 |
just being here is about |
01:04:10 |
He loves that bathrobe. |
01:04:50 |
The Inventa Everest 2000 Environmental |
01:04:55 |
with 632 discarded oxygen bottles... |
01:04:59 |
and over 600 pounds of garbage |
01:05:04 |
3 Western climbers and 10 Sherpas |
01:05:09 |
and a new world record was established |
01:05:23 |
For the Sherpas this ends |
01:05:27 |
many will return next year |
01:05:35 |
Our simple message is... |
01:05:39 |
no matter what we do... |
01:05:41 |
we can do a better job in cleaning up |
01:05:44 |
If we were able to come to |
01:05:48 |
and with an environment as harsh as |
01:05:54 |
there's nothing we can't do |
01:05:56 |
in helping the environment. |