|
National Geographic Dragons of the Gal pagos
|
| 00:00:06 |
A volcano on the equator |
| 00:00:10 |
and on its very rim, |
| 00:00:15 |
a giant tortoise. |
| 00:00:25 |
Inside another, in its very throat, |
| 00:00:28 |
an iguana climbs down the walls to lay |
| 00:00:38 |
Yet this is one of |
| 00:00:51 |
Closer to the coast, molten lava |
| 00:01:06 |
And here, alongside a lava flow, |
| 00:01:15 |
Like creatures from some creation myth |
| 00:01:18 |
these reptiles manage, astonishingly, |
| 00:01:21 |
to live among the fires |
| 00:02:22 |
The Galapagos Islands are home to |
| 00:02:26 |
the marine iguana. |
| 00:02:31 |
In spite of the crashing surf, |
| 00:02:33 |
the iguanas manage to graze |
| 00:02:36 |
of marine algae that flourish around |
| 00:02:41 |
After an hour or so in the sea, |
| 00:02:43 |
these lizards have to come to land |
| 00:02:54 |
Getting ashore is not always easy. |
| 00:03:31 |
This is the coast of Fernandina, |
| 00:03:33 |
the most westerly and the newest |
| 00:03:36 |
and home to the biggest concentration |
| 00:03:41 |
It's January, |
| 00:03:44 |
the time for them to begin to breed. |
| 00:03:48 |
Big males roam aggressively through |
| 00:03:52 |
establishing their breeding territories |
| 00:03:54 |
and that means battling with rivals. |
| 00:04:17 |
Shaking the head is a challenge |
| 00:04:37 |
While the larger males were fighting, |
| 00:04:39 |
a subordinate has moved |
| 00:04:44 |
The big male regularly surveys |
| 00:04:47 |
and he's spotted the trespasser. |
| 00:05:03 |
This cannot be allowed. |
| 00:05:15 |
He drags the female away |
| 00:05:17 |
and carries her off to the center |
| 00:05:28 |
Once the female receives his sperm, |
| 00:05:30 |
she will become unreceptive |
| 00:05:39 |
The intruder will have |
| 00:05:45 |
The iguanas congregate |
| 00:05:48 |
where there is easy access to the sea |
| 00:05:57 |
There are fifteen main islands |
| 00:06:01 |
In contrast to the sea around them, |
| 00:06:03 |
they are largely barren and dominated |
| 00:06:13 |
All, over the last five million years, |
| 00:06:16 |
have been built by volcanoes erupting |
| 00:06:20 |
deep below on the floor of the ocean, |
| 00:06:40 |
Rivers of molten rock pour down |
| 00:06:44 |
lighting the equatorial night |
| 00:06:47 |
Nothing can stand in their path |
| 00:06:49 |
as they flow inexorably downhill |
| 00:07:12 |
When dawn comes, |
| 00:07:13 |
it reveals that the lava has run right |
| 00:07:18 |
the home of a pair of Galapagos hawks |
| 00:07:26 |
Some of the survivors are |
| 00:07:28 |
across the cooling fringes of the lava |
| 00:07:31 |
but at the cost of scorching their feet. |
| 00:07:38 |
Others were not so lucky. |
| 00:07:47 |
On the coast, the lava created |
| 00:07:54 |
Birds lost their regular roosts |
| 00:08:00 |
Many of the marine iguanas, however, |
| 00:08:05 |
Only a few escaped and now |
| 00:08:10 |
and the flightless cormorants. |
| 00:08:15 |
It's February. On a nearby beach, |
| 00:08:18 |
the female marine iguanas |
| 00:08:24 |
Four weeks ago, they had mated |
| 00:08:45 |
Hawks have appeared |
| 00:08:51 |
The arrival of the hawks |
| 00:08:54 |
Out on the beach, the females are |
| 00:08:58 |
It's time for them to leave. |
| 00:09:10 |
As the hawks take off, |
| 00:09:11 |
the female iguanas run for a place |
| 00:09:40 |
The hawk may have tackled |
| 00:09:43 |
The outcome is by no means |
| 00:09:52 |
The female will still have a chance |
| 00:10:06 |
And finally the hawk gives up |
| 00:10:20 |
The males, being bigger, |
| 00:10:22 |
are usually safe from attack |
| 00:10:25 |
in the sun before going into the water |
| 00:10:49 |
They have particularly long claws that |
| 00:10:54 |
and resist the pull of the swell |
| 00:11:09 |
Although these are air-breathing animals, |
| 00:11:11 |
they regularly remain underwater |
| 00:11:15 |
But they seldom stay out |
| 00:11:18 |
because they get chilled |
| 00:11:28 |
Little wrasse swim alongside them, |
| 00:11:31 |
gathering the small creatures disturbed |
| 00:11:46 |
Schools of baitfish have appeared. |
| 00:11:48 |
They are pursued by sea-lions, |
| 00:11:51 |
descendant from immigrants |
| 00:11:53 |
from California in the distant past. |
| 00:11:59 |
Sea-lions, like iguanas, |
| 00:12:03 |
But being mammals, |
| 00:12:06 |
and so they're able to |
| 00:13:01 |
March and warmer waters flow down |
| 00:13:05 |
raising the temperature of the sea. |
| 00:13:09 |
Evaporation from |
| 00:13:11 |
and clouds build up above the islands. |
| 00:13:21 |
Soon there will be rain. |
| 00:13:34 |
All the inhabitants of the Galapagos |
| 00:13:36 |
seem to appreciate the refreshment |
| 00:14:08 |
For the land iguanas, |
| 00:14:11 |
it brings the rare chance of a drink. |
| 00:14:27 |
Isabela, the largest of the islands, |
| 00:14:32 |
and pools have formed on the floor |
| 00:14:39 |
The giant tortoises take in gallons |
| 00:14:42 |
and store it in their bladders |
| 00:14:51 |
The hawks are beginning their |
| 00:15:00 |
The tortoises too, after feasting |
| 00:15:03 |
will soon begin their mating. |
| 00:15:12 |
The males are all somewhat bigger |
| 00:15:14 |
but this one has picked a particularly |
| 00:15:24 |
A young hawk seems baffled |
| 00:15:43 |
It's trick and |
| 00:15:46 |
and the groans of the males |
| 00:15:49 |
echoing around the crater. |
| 00:16:34 |
Alcedo is only one of six large |
| 00:16:40 |
Each has its own population |
| 00:16:44 |
being separated by barren fields of lava |
| 00:16:47 |
have in isolation, evolved their own |
| 00:16:55 |
Fernandian, west of Isabela, |
| 00:16:57 |
once had tortoises too |
| 00:17:01 |
It is, however, |
| 00:17:04 |
and the eggs they laid on the beach, |
| 00:17:06 |
warmed by the sun, are now hatching. |
| 00:17:31 |
For the great blue heron, |
| 00:18:07 |
For the hatchlings, there is hundred |
| 00:18:11 |
before they reach the safety |
| 00:18:15 |
Herons are not the only enemy |
| 00:18:22 |
Galapagos snakes don't kill |
| 00:18:25 |
they squeeze them to death. |
| 00:18:32 |
But first they have to catch them. |
| 00:18:41 |
In order to reach the sea, |
| 00:18:43 |
some young iguanas must first cross |
| 00:18:58 |
The snakes know this |
| 00:19:00 |
and several of them are there, |
| 00:19:50 |
The snake can unhinge its lower jaw |
| 00:19:53 |
and engulf prey that is stouter |
| 00:19:56 |
Death comes to the young iguana |
| 00:20:12 |
Some iguanas find safety in deep |
| 00:20:45 |
That crack was just not narrow enough. |
| 00:21:12 |
The ancestral iguanas are thought |
| 00:21:16 |
as involuntary passengers |
| 00:21:19 |
on floating vegetation, |
| 00:21:23 |
and while one branch of their |
| 00:21:27 |
another took to the hills. |
| 00:21:35 |
In patches of vegetation |
| 00:21:39 |
the land iguanas are now gathering |
| 00:21:42 |
Each male has dug a number of burrows |
| 00:21:49 |
Her nod, however, |
| 00:21:50 |
is an aggressive 'no' |
| 00:21:58 |
But he persists. |
| 00:22:16 |
Now she seems almost indifferent to him. |
| 00:22:22 |
She allows a mockingbird to clean her |
| 00:22:25 |
by picking off dead bits |
| 00:22:35 |
She makes a meal from one of |
| 00:22:47 |
He's beginning to lose patience. |
| 00:23:06 |
This is not the place to mate. |
| 00:23:08 |
It's better to take her to the center |
| 00:23:11 |
where he is least likely |
| 00:23:35 |
His contribution to the partnership |
| 00:23:39 |
When they separate he'll stay here |
| 00:23:44 |
But her labors are only just beginning, |
| 00:23:47 |
For now she sets off on |
| 00:23:55 |
She starts to ascend the flanks |
| 00:23:58 |
going up to towards the crater. |
| 00:24:03 |
She'll have to climb up to fifteen |
| 00:24:07 |
and the journey to the top will take |
| 00:24:18 |
Close to the rim of the crater, |
| 00:24:22 |
and this keeps the ash warm and moist |
| 00:24:25 |
the perfect place though |
| 00:24:33 |
She follows a well-worn path up |
| 00:24:37 |
Hundred have already been this way |
| 00:24:48 |
Suitable ground is limited and much |
| 00:25:14 |
She spots an area that seems vacant... |
| 00:25:23 |
but it's not. |
| 00:25:39 |
There seems to be no room for her here |
| 00:25:54 |
The sun is beginning to set. |
| 00:25:58 |
At this altitude, |
| 00:26:01 |
and that's bad for a reptile |
| 00:26:03 |
She has to find shelter. |
| 00:26:10 |
A small cave just the place. |
| 00:26:15 |
Others are already inside, |
| 00:26:28 |
The temperature begins |
| 00:26:36 |
But steam, percolating from below, |
| 00:26:58 |
In the cool morning air, |
| 00:27:02 |
Heated from the magma chambers below. |
| 00:27:07 |
But the nesting ground |
| 00:27:10 |
She and other late comers |
| 00:27:18 |
There's only one place to go now |
| 00:27:20 |
over the lip of the crater |
| 00:27:25 |
Fernandina crater I immense. |
| 00:27:27 |
Eruptions emptied |
| 00:27:30 |
and the top of the mountain collapsed, |
| 00:27:39 |
No-one knows when it will explode again. |
| 00:27:56 |
The walls of the crater have not yet |
| 00:28:00 |
and are continually collapsing. |
| 00:28:07 |
She and her companions start on |
| 00:28:12 |
They descend into the crater. |
| 00:28:25 |
The crater floor is almost |
| 00:28:28 |
The walls are steep and |
| 00:28:37 |
The slightest disturbance can |
| 00:28:41 |
and each year the iguanas have |
| 00:29:04 |
Many of the migrants are killed |
| 00:29:51 |
At last they reach the crater floor. |
| 00:29:56 |
Ash lies thickly here. |
| 00:29:59 |
In some areas steam |
| 00:30:02 |
and there, just below the surface, |
| 00:30:04 |
it's a constant 30 degrees centigrade |
| 00:30:07 |
to incubate iguana eggs. |
| 00:30:15 |
There is more room down here. |
| 00:30:17 |
But any attempt to dig in a place |
| 00:30:20 |
that might disturb |
| 00:30:22 |
will lead to violence. |
| 00:31:20 |
A place of her own at last. |
| 00:31:25 |
Even after all this, |
| 00:31:29 |
Some years, an eruption |
| 00:31:33 |
nor are the females' labors yet over. |
| 00:31:35 |
They still have to climb out |
| 00:31:38 |
and trek ten kilometers down |
| 00:31:50 |
July brings relief from the hot season |
| 00:31:53 |
Trade winds from the southeast drive |
| 00:31:58 |
and the moisture they carry condenses |
| 00:32:05 |
This is the garua. |
| 00:32:10 |
For the next six months, |
| 00:32:11 |
these mists will be the only source |
| 00:32:18 |
Twenty-five kilometers to the east |
| 00:32:27 |
There, the arrival of the garua |
| 00:32:30 |
in the crater to climb up to the rim |
| 00:32:54 |
There are several kinds of birds up here. |
| 00:32:58 |
A finch collects ticks |
| 00:33:01 |
just as mockingbirds pick skin |
| 00:33:08 |
And tortoises invite them to do so |
| 00:33:13 |
so that the birds can reach |
| 00:33:23 |
Tortoises, after all, |
| 00:33:26 |
neither can they clean their nostrils, |
| 00:33:28 |
so this arrangement suits both parties |
| 00:33:42 |
In the western part of the archipelago |
| 00:33:45 |
the garua sweeps around the slopes of |
| 00:33:50 |
blocking out the sun for |
| 00:33:59 |
As the mists burn off, |
| 00:34:02 |
the marine iguanas begin their |
| 00:34:27 |
At this time of the year, |
| 00:34:29 |
cool currents sweep in |
| 00:34:32 |
a thousand kilometers away to the east |
| 00:34:36 |
from the central Pacific often well up |
| 00:34:39 |
producing lush growths of marine algae |
| 00:34:48 |
The algae grow with phenomenal speed. |
| 00:34:51 |
And they need to, |
| 00:34:52 |
for along this stretch of coast live |
| 00:35:04 |
The hatchlings are now three months old |
| 00:35:06 |
and they feed on the algae exposed |
| 00:35:26 |
Sea-lion pups of around the same age |
| 00:35:30 |
They stay in the shallows, |
| 00:35:37 |
And no only with one another. |
| 00:35:39 |
For them, an iguana seems |
| 00:36:26 |
By early afternoon, most of |
| 00:36:30 |
and are sunbathing to get |
| 00:36:33 |
to be able to digest their meals. |
| 00:36:43 |
Some of the hatchlings stay together |
| 00:36:47 |
but others mingle with the adults. |
| 00:36:50 |
And that is the safer place to be. |
| 00:36:56 |
The hawk won't tackle |
| 00:36:59 |
it's too big and powerful. |
| 00:37:01 |
A young hatchling, however, |
| 00:37:52 |
A young reptile dies... |
| 00:37:58 |
for this is also the time |
| 00:38:13 |
There are two chicks in the nest. |
| 00:38:15 |
The bigger one is always fed first. |
| 00:38:17 |
Only when it is satisfied |
| 00:38:21 |
But this year has been a good one |
| 00:38:24 |
so there's plenty of food |
| 00:38:33 |
Back on the coast, |
| 00:38:51 |
The mother tears away |
| 00:38:53 |
so that her baby can get its |
| 00:39:04 |
As it breathes, so it calls |
| 00:39:08 |
for the two must learn to recognize |
| 00:39:12 |
and so be able to find one another |
| 00:39:22 |
The sea-lion's afterbirth |
| 00:39:26 |
and both crabs and iguanas |
| 00:39:36 |
The rich up welling nutrients along |
| 00:39:39 |
stimulate the boobies |
| 00:39:48 |
A blue-footed boody needs to show |
| 00:39:52 |
and is not any other kind of boody, |
| 00:39:54 |
and their courtship dances certainly |
| 00:40:10 |
In some areas the boobies are breeding |
| 00:40:12 |
where the marine iguanas traditionally |
| 00:40:15 |
and the reptiles have to run |
| 00:40:18 |
to get to their dormitories. |
| 00:40:44 |
As the iguanas settle down to sleep, |
| 00:40:46 |
they continually spurt liquid |
| 00:40:53 |
This is a salty fluid that drains |
| 00:40:56 |
from special glands that excrete |
| 00:41:00 |
with their meals of sea-weed. |
| 00:41:06 |
The sun begins to sink, |
| 00:41:08 |
the day cools and the iguanas cluster |
| 00:41:15 |
During the night, the garua rolls in |
| 00:41:24 |
At dawn, mist clings to the coast |
| 00:41:26 |
because of the continued presence |
| 00:41:30 |
It's signal for the penguins |
| 00:41:45 |
Like the blue-foots, penguins |
| 00:41:51 |
and it has arrived. |
| 00:41:54 |
The rich waters along the coast have |
| 00:42:02 |
Penguins love baitfish. |
| 00:42:20 |
One of their tactics is to drive |
| 00:42:24 |
where there's less room |
| 00:42:34 |
Forced near the surface, |
| 00:42:43 |
Pelicans. |
| 00:43:32 |
Once the pelicans have drained |
| 00:43:35 |
they can lift their beaks |
| 00:43:38 |
without being pestered by penguins. |
| 00:43:41 |
But now there are others to trouble them |
| 00:43:44 |
Noddy terns. |
| 00:44:08 |
The blue-foots can fish |
| 00:44:11 |
They often detect the presence |
| 00:44:14 |
by the activities of dolphins... |
| 00:44:18 |
who are searching for the same thing. |
| 00:44:45 |
The sea-lions also follow dolphins. |
| 00:45:08 |
And when at last the prize is discovered, |
| 00:45:12 |
There's a frenzy of feeding. |
| 00:45:15 |
Harried from below by dolphins |
| 00:45:18 |
the shoal rises towards the surface |
| 00:46:09 |
Back on the cliffs, |
| 00:46:10 |
the young blue-foots are exercising |
| 00:46:15 |
and playing with the marine iguanas. |
| 00:46:29 |
Such activities all help to develop |
| 00:46:32 |
the young boobies' skills of manipulation |
| 00:46:34 |
and build up their wing muscles |
| 00:46:36 |
for the time when they too |
| 00:46:53 |
The hawk chicks, well nourished |
| 00:46:56 |
are now two months old |
| 00:47:00 |
eager, doubtless, |
| 00:47:13 |
Last year's broods of hawks gather |
| 00:47:18 |
and demonstrate their competence in |
| 00:47:43 |
They're keeping a sharp eye on |
| 00:47:47 |
for their biggest feast of the year |
| 00:48:00 |
It's now October, a hundred days since |
| 00:48:03 |
the female land iguanas |
| 00:48:08 |
Those should now be on |
| 00:48:24 |
All the hawks are aware |
| 00:48:28 |
and all are determined |
| 00:48:33 |
The first of the hatchlings emerges. |
| 00:48:37 |
Though totally inexperienced, |
| 00:48:39 |
they obviously sense the danger posed |
| 00:48:48 |
The eggs in each clutch hatch |
| 00:48:52 |
and the youngsters will stand |
| 00:48:54 |
if they all run for cover together. |
| 00:49:16 |
One decides to make a break for it. |
| 00:49:38 |
The others see that the attention |
| 00:49:55 |
It's hot work, waiting around. |
| 00:49:58 |
The ash is now 50 degrees centigrade. |
| 00:50:26 |
There are just too many talons around |
| 00:51:09 |
Once they reach the crater wall, |
| 00:51:12 |
But the hawks can still outwit them. |
| 00:51:20 |
They are only six inches long; |
| 00:51:22 |
they have not yet fed and are |
| 00:51:26 |
on the little yolk that remains |
| 00:51:29 |
And they still have to climb |
| 00:51:56 |
The rim of the crater at last. |
| 00:51:59 |
But this is only a brief triumph. |
| 00:52:04 |
Neither the journey nor its dangers |
| 00:52:11 |
A short distance below is |
| 00:52:15 |
which their mothers passed |
| 00:52:17 |
on their way into the caldera. |
| 00:52:24 |
Up to a dozen snakes have gathered here. |
| 00:52:28 |
Some slither into the burrows |
| 00:52:32 |
listening for the vibrations made |
| 00:52:35 |
as they dig their way up to the surface. |
| 00:53:06 |
The hatchlings can outrun the snakes |
| 00:53:28 |
But the snakes are everywhere. |
| 00:53:42 |
There are few that make their escape |
| 00:53:45 |
climb up a plant or a boulder every now |
| 00:53:47 |
and then to get a better view |
| 00:53:50 |
there is a long way to go get |
| 00:53:56 |
Their final destination is |
| 00:54:00 |
Thirteen hundred meters below. |
| 00:54:07 |
Down on the coast, their cousins, |
| 00:54:09 |
the young marine iguanas, |
| 00:54:12 |
and increasingly confident |
| 00:54:27 |
It will be several years yet |
| 00:54:30 |
and strong enough to join their |
| 00:54:39 |
The reptiles of the Galapagos live in |
| 00:54:44 |
But it's no island paradise. |
| 00:54:46 |
They're surrounded at all times |
| 00:54:50 |
the sea and the sky. |
| 00:54:55 |
The very rocks they live on |
| 00:55:00 |
But it's these very perils and |
| 00:55:03 |
and refined these species |
| 00:55:06 |
that today there are no other |
| 00:55:10 |
like the dragons of the Galapagos. |
