National Geographic Jerusalem Within These Walls
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Within these walls lies a mystical city... |
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an ancient promise of peace so desired |
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that man has warred over it for |
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Over the centuries its walls |
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by the blood of Jebusites and Jews, |
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Babylonians and Persians |
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Ottoman Turks, and the British Empire. |
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Sacred city of the soul for one |
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through the millennia it has drawn |
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To all who live, work, and visit here, |
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this is more than a city; |
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it is a haven the fulfillment |
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or prophecy the legacy of generations |
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For this man and his family, |
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coming here was the consummation |
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2,000 years ago. |
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This man came here as an orphaned boy |
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and found a miniature version of |
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The dark shadow of Hitler's |
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across Europe drove this man |
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that led to the discovery of his roots |
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in the very earth beneath his home. |
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The magnetism of the city's Holy |
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that this man risked losing his |
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Proud inheritor of a name |
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that has lived in this city |
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this man's life bridges past |
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From near and far they have come, |
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searching for refuge, for their pasts, |
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and the meaning of the present. |
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Three thousand years of vibrant |
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and belief are rooted here |
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within the walls of Jerusalem. |
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Jerusalem, within these walls |
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in the tiny enclave that is |
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some of the greatest dramas |
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of mankind have been enacted. |
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This is a story of that city crucible |
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great monotheistic religions... |
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symbol of peace in an area of |
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It is a story of peoples of |
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who struggle to maintain |
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people who have fought each other, |
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but now live side by side in |
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Jews from around the world pray |
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at the Western Wall vestige of |
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object of Jewish yearning and |
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Here, built on the sites |
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where tradition says Jesus spent |
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was crucified and entombed, |
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is the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. |
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Most holy of shrines |
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this church has attracted pilgrims |
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since the time of Constantine |
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In the walls of their |
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Armenians strive to preserve the |
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in their lives... and in the hearts |
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Consecrated under this Dome is the |
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tradition says, |
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Abraham prepared to sacrifice Isaac... |
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over which the ancient temples of |
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from which, Muslims proclaim, |
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Muhammad journeyed to heaven. |
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This tumult of people and history |
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intersects in the labyrinth of |
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Wrapped around the venerable city |
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for an exotic jewel are the walls |
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of the eras of King Herod, |
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the Romans, and Crusaders... |
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last rebuilt by Suleiman the |
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Outside the walls, there is the |
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the new city of Jerusalem, |
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and the administrative center of |
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Inside is a city believed |
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to be the center of the Universe, |
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a city known to more people |
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than any other on earth. |
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Here, the heart of historic |
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Its ethnic-religious quarters cling |
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the Dome of the Rock: |
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third holiest place of Islamic |
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and Medina and focal point of |
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the Western Wall |
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symbol of the Jewish Quarter... |
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the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, |
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core of the Christian Quarter that |
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the Cathedral of St. James, |
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spiritual center of the |
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Twenty-six thousand souls make their |
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packed into an area of less than |
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Their story began 3,000 years ago, |
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when King David bought the threshing |
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for the temple of the Jew's one God. |
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Having subdued the Jebusites, |
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he transformed their city |
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of the United Kingdom of Israel |
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and thrust Jerusalem center stage in |
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Once a royal center of |
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and massive fortifications, |
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the City of David has begun to reveal |
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under the direction of Dr. Yigal |
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"David made this city more important |
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by choosing this location to become |
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and Israel at the north." |
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The residential area of David's |
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much like this village of today. |
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Urbanization undoubtedly began here |
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because of the presence of the |
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a constant source of water. |
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At the end of the eighth century B.C., |
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anticipating an attack by the Assyrians, |
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King Hezekiah ordered |
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"Why should the kings of Assyria |
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asks the Bible in Second Chronicles |
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the tunnel carried the water |
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from the spring outside the wall |
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"This system was done by king Hezekiah |
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and the inscription that was found |
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at the southern end of the tunnel." |
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The city survived the siege |
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But in 586 B.C., Babylonian forces |
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massacred thousands, and exiled |
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Archeologists have uncovered poignant |
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who once lived here, |
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including clay seals bearing names |
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The lament of the exiles echoes |
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"If I forget thee, O Jerusalem, |
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let my right hand forget her cunning... |
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let my tongue cleave to the roof |
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if I prefer not Jerusalem above |
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A half century later, |
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the Persians defeated the Babylonians |
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and allowed the Jews to return. |
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The Second Temple rose on the site |
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This model depicts Jerusalem as it was |
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when Jesus came here to celebrate |
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Although He knew the repressive |
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had labeled Him a rebel, |
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He continued to preach brotherhood |
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In the last days before |
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Jesus left the temple by these steps. |
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They are on of the few remnants |
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on the anniversary of the day |
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had sacked the First Temple, |
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the Romans burned the city |
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and took the rest as slaves. |
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Thus was Jerusalem destroyed |
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Six hundred years later |
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Muhammad departed for the |
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from the sacred rock of Jerusalem |
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where the temple had stood. |
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Aware of the Holy Books of the Jews |
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Muhammad had converted the |
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to the concept of one God. |
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Only six years after his death, |
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an army of his followers stood at |
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claiming the city as their own. |
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Muslims were to rule Jerusalem |
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Except for two interruptions |
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when the Crusaders wrested |
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In the 20th century, |
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the flame of war again flared |
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World War I: The British march |
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to fight the Ottoman Turks. |
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As it has some 20 times in |
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in 1917 Jerusalem falls. |
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The Holy City is surrendered |
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Mindful that Jesus had walked |
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General Sir Edmund Allenby humbly |
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There are renewed stirrings |
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the concept of a modern Jewish nation |
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In 1947, |
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the United Nations votes to end |
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and partition Palestine into Jewish |
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May 14, 1948: David Ben-Gurion |
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the fulfillment of the dream |
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makes a proclamation Jews everywhere |
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"The State of Israel has arisen." |
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The next day, six neighboring Arab |
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determined to crush the infant nation |
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With Jerusalem under siege and the |
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the Holy Books are removed. |
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Jerusalem is a divided city. |
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For 19 years the Old City will |
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In 1967, as the Six Day War rages, |
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Israeli paratroopers storm through |
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Defense Minister Moshe Dayan arrives |
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in Jewish hands again for |
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According to ancient custom, |
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General Dayan writes a prayer |
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"May peace come to the Jewish people." |
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Today, a fragile peace reigns |
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The Supreme Muslim Council has remained |
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in charge of the Dome of |
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reclaimed the Western Wall, |
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cherished relic of their lost temple. |
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Jews from more than one hundred |
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have come to live in their |
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Many are Ashkenazi, from Europe |
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the rest, Sephardic and Oriental Jews, |
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are from Mediterranean regions, |
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the Middle and Far East. |
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When the Jewish community in Yemen |
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Joseph Zadok and his family decided |
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For them, the Biblical prophecy of |
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His grandson, Shalom, explains: |
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"My family knew from the Bible |
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and from our tradition that Jerusalem |
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When my family came from Yemen, |
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they wanted to live only in Jerusalem. |
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We call it center of the world." |
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Isolated in remote southern Arabia |
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persecuted by their Muslim rulers, |
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the Jews of Yemen had long dreamed |
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in the promised land. |
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They clung to their beliefs, |
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and kept the ancient observances |
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Now, celebrating Passover, |
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the Zadoks commemorate |
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from slavery in Egypt, |
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just ad Jesus did at what has come |
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The Bible promised "They that wait |
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shall mount up with wings as eagles." |
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In 1949 the Zadoks joined the flood |
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crossing hundred of miles |
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donkey back, and by truck to Aden. |
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Those who survived the |
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were flown to the Holy Land |
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by an airlift dubbed |
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Restricted to certain |
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many Jews were shoemakers |
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Joseph Zadok was a court jeweler |
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"Our family has been making jewelry |
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for more than seven generations. |
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It is our heritage, our tradition. |
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When we came from Yemen, |
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we tried to keep our traditions." |
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"Most of the Yemenite brides |
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use our wedding dress and jewelry." |
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The bride, of European ancestry, |
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carries on her groom's |
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She wears the elaborate jewelry |
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and costume the Zakods lend |
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for a ceremony called the "hineh" |
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that accompanied every Jewish |
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The henna from which the festivity |
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has long been used as a talisman |
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If the henna applied to the hands |
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and groom remains in the morning, |
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their wedding will take place. |
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Mr. Zadok, a relative of the groom, |
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is here to bestow a blessing. |
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Beginning a life together, |
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this young couple shares |
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of their combined European, |
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Oriental, and Israeli cultures. |
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During the Jordanian occupation |
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the Jewish Quarter had been |
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When reconstruction began after |
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Theo and Miriam Siebenberg |
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were the third family to build here. |
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"It was my dream to come to Jerusalem. |
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Jews have been praying for Jerusalem |
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for thousands of years, |
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going back even to the time of |
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"The Jewish Quarter is full of our |
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When we came, the Jewish Quarter |
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and now everything is built and clean. |
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The changes were immense." |
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"I was born in Antwerp, Belgium. |
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My family left Antwerp on May 11, |
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after the Germans marched into Belgium." |
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As the Nazi horror swept across Europe, |
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the Siebenberg family fled... |
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finally even crossing mountains on foot |
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Always fearful and in hiding, |
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for months the refugees traveled |
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until they made their way to safety. |
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After the war, as the Jewish people |
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Theo joined the underground. |
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Eventually, he made his way here. |
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Like all Jews born in Israel, |
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Miriam is known as a "sabra." |
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"My parents came from Warsaw, Poland. |
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I was born in Tel Aviv and I went |
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and then the high school. |
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And after high school I went to the army, |
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like all the sabras in Israel did. |
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I thought I'd never leave the army, |
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I liked it so much." |
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Miriam and Theo met at a party |
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Today they often entertain |
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drawn by the remarkable discoveries |
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When Theo and Miriam completed |
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archeologists were digging all around |
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Fired by the dramatic finds being made, |
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Siebenberg determined to build a |
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As workmen removed 3,000 years of |
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tangible links with those who had |
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through the millennia began to emerge. |
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"These stones here are each made out |
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They are sections actually of |
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the passed here 2,000 years ago |
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and which brought water into the |
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"Now this is a mikvah or Jewish |
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which is 2,000 years old |
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and belonged to the mansion |
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And of course that was a |
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The home probably burned |
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when the Romans sacked |
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"Now if you look down here, |
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these rooms that you see |
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"...they were hewn out of solid rock |
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That's roughly King Solomon's time. |
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The openings that you see here were |
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"The soul would actually rise out of |
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and there was on top of this a |
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which was the permanent abode of |
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For Theo Siebenberg, |
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each discovery provided palpable |
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"Actually we're four floors under |
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I find this probably the most |
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Actually we're standing in a room |
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and you can almost feel the presence |
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who lived here at that time you know, |
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King Solomon's time |
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"This is a machine gun |
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which was used in the war of |
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"The same week I found this I was |
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at the other end of the site, |
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and I found..." |
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against the Romans in the year 70 |
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"So you have this whole span of..." |
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"Of wars." |
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Absorbed by his passion, |
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Theo has spent fifteen years |
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and three million dollars creating |
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the museum he and Miriam will |
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"This was used 2,000 years ago |
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When you think of it... |
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You wonder what letters might |
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by the owner of the house..." |
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These artifacts will enable |
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to experience their connections |
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"This here actually is |
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from the fire of this |
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when the house was destroyed." |
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"Don't touch it too often. |
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I see your fingers peeling if off" |
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"Traces of history" |
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Fifty years after the armies of Islam |
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across the desert to claim Jerusalem, |
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a Muslim caliph built a shrine |
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which Muhammad had ascended to |
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This magnificent legacy has |
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for more than a thousand years. |
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Now, during Ramadan, |
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the Muslim holy month of fasting |
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thousands of pilgrims journey to |
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for one of the Islamic world's most |
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When prayers are over, |
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the throng disperses through the narrow |
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alleyways of the Muslim Quarter. |
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The family of Khalil Khalidi has |
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since the day 1,300 years ago |
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when his ancestor rode into Jerusalem |
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at the head of a column of |
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Khalil has a shop in the Muslim Quarter |
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where he repairs furniture and antiques. |
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He specializes in |
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His neighbor, a blind old player stops |
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by to pick up the instrument |
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that Khalil has repaired for him. |
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Through the centuries, |
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his family has provided a |
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to Jerusalem's Muslim community. |
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Among their proudest achievements |
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and possessions is the Khalidi Library. |
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Founded in 1900, it consists of their |
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6,000 book and manuscripts in Arabic, |
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Persian, English, French, and Turkish. |
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Khalil's uncle and cousin refer to |
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by their ancestors. |
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"My family came to Jerusalem |
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with the Islamic liberation |
00:28:16 |
My family lived in Jerusalem |
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but they were forced to Nablus |
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when the Crusaders occupied the city. |
00:28:27 |
"They came back to Jerusalem with |
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Saladin al Ayubib. |
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They were the political and the |
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With his cousin he examines their |
00:28:52 |
Each week Khalil goes to the |
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cemetery outside the city walls. |
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"At the cemetery I go to pray |
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for my ancestor Muhammad Ali Khalidi. |
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He was the governor of Jerusalem |
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When I go to visit his tomb, |
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I feel that I am standing in front |
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with deep roots in this country." |
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During the month of Ramadan the |
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with activity after sundown. |
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Here, where ties are old deep, |
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friend and family gather to commemorate |
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Songs celebrating the birth of |
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are followed by a sumptuous meal, |
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ending the fast they have observed |
00:31:22 |
Within the walls of the Old City |
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the ancient traditions resonate |
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binding the people of the present |
00:31:42 |
Ironically, it was a Roman emperor |
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who adopted Christianity as |
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and assured the future of |
00:31:52 |
His mother, the Empress Helena, |
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journeyed here three centuries |
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Over the sites where she believed |
00:32:02 |
Constantine erected the Church of |
00:32:07 |
Today the church is shared |
00:32:11 |
Greek, Armenian, Ethiopian |
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Roman Catholic, and Coptic. |
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The Copts have a tiny chapel at the |
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the front chapel belongs to |
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Among their holdings is the stone |
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where Jesus is thought to have lain |
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when He was taken from the cross. |
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Over the Rock of Calvary where Jesus |
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was crucified the Greek Orthodox |
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Deep in the church near the base |
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is an Armenian Orthodox chapel |
00:33:08 |
Medieval pilgrims etched tiny crosses |
00:33:12 |
where Helena found what she thought |
00:33:18 |
Painted on the bedrock is a ship |
00:33:22 |
"O Lord, we arrived." |
00:33:25 |
It indicates that long before |
00:33:27 |
was built pilgrims journeyed here, |
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believing this to be the site of |
00:33:40 |
A mud hut village atop the roof |
00:33:44 |
which the Ethiopian Orthodox, |
00:33:46 |
one of the oldest Christian communities |
00:33:52 |
Control of even this modest outpost |
00:33:56 |
that began in Ottoman times. |
00:34:05 |
Tense rivalries between sects |
00:34:09 |
over rights to this most sacred of |
00:34:44 |
Cloistered behind protective walls, |
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the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate |
00:34:48 |
next to the Church of |
00:34:51 |
Its monasteries, chapels, |
00:34:53 |
and administrative offices |
00:34:54 |
form a body comparable to a |
00:35:00 |
As a boy, Father Timothy felt |
00:35:03 |
to join the monks who serve here. |
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"I decided to join the brotherhood |
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that the brothers have in front |
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to safeguard the Holy Places, |
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to venerate them, to have them ready |
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for every Christian to come also |
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Chief Secretary of the Patriarchate |
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and private secretary to |
00:35:38 |
Father Timothy recalls the path |
00:35:42 |
"When I was 14 years old, |
00:35:44 |
a priest came once to preach |
00:35:47 |
For me that was the turning point |
00:35:51 |
'Jerusalem is the place I am going |
00:35:54 |
My parents wouldn't |
00:35:58 |
At last I said, |
00:35:59 |
'If you are not going to help me, |
00:36:01 |
I will never call you mother and |
00:36:04 |
Finally they decided to sign |
00:36:07 |
Then I came here. |
00:36:08 |
I said to myself that I should stay |
00:36:13 |
I feel deeply every moment |
00:36:17 |
that my life is connected with |
00:36:33 |
Timothy attended the seminary |
00:36:36 |
like this generation of seminarians, |
00:36:38 |
he left his native land to dedicate |
00:36:40 |
his life to the holy shrines |
00:36:50 |
Each of his days begins and |
00:36:54 |
his rededication to |
00:36:57 |
that induced him to come to |
00:37:02 |
"Jerusalem is the city which |
00:37:07 |
and should fill the hearts of all |
00:37:11 |
It would be easy to be a priest |
00:37:14 |
but here in Jerusalem I feel |
00:37:32 |
Sequestered behind a huge gate that |
00:37:35 |
and locked again each night, |
00:37:37 |
the Armenian Quarter has existed |
00:37:42 |
Life within still centers around the |
00:37:49 |
A reminder of the days |
00:37:51 |
when the Muslim rulers forbade the |
00:37:54 |
the striking of this plank |
00:38:05 |
Today the community gathers to |
00:38:09 |
For the Armenians are a people |
00:38:11 |
whose ancient homeland has |
00:38:13 |
many of its citizens killed |
00:38:17 |
To Elia Kahavdjian, the service |
00:38:21 |
for he is a survivor of |
00:38:24 |
For him, Jerusalem became a haven. |
00:38:27 |
Sixty years ago, |
00:38:28 |
he arrived as an orphaned boy; |
00:38:31 |
now he is surrounded by |
00:38:48 |
Survivors lead the solemn procession |
00:38:52 |
They are living reminders of |
00:38:53 |
one million five hundred thousand |
00:39:04 |
In 1915, part of what had once been |
00:39:08 |
was under Ottoman rule. |
00:39:10 |
Labeling the Armenians "infidels" |
00:39:13 |
and "a dangerous foreign element", |
00:39:15 |
the government began to kill their |
00:39:19 |
Life had little value, |
00:39:21 |
as this magazine caption illustrates: |
00:39:23 |
"Five Dollars Buys a Pretty Armenian |
00:39:28 |
Describing their policy as the |
00:39:29 |
"displacement of the |
00:39:33 |
the Ottoman Turks drove them on |
00:39:37 |
The road was the path of death |
00:39:40 |
massacre and starvation. |
00:39:48 |
Elia Kahvedjian remembers: |
00:39:52 |
"They took us through |
00:39:57 |
We walked I don't know |
00:40:00 |
how many months walked. |
00:40:02 |
Near Mardin they bring us to a place |
00:40:06 |
where all around it was many hills. |
00:40:09 |
My mother, she says, 'My darling |
00:40:15 |
I want to give my son to that Kurd |
00:40:18 |
Maybe he will remain alive." |
00:40:23 |
The Kurdish family fed him |
00:40:26 |
and sold him at an auction to a |
00:40:30 |
The husband was an ironsmith, |
00:40:32 |
and six-year-old Elia worked the |
00:40:36 |
When the man remarried, young Elia |
00:40:40 |
He drifted, begging, for a year, |
00:40:43 |
until the American Near East |
00:40:45 |
placed him in an orphanage and, |
00:40:47 |
eventually, brought him to Jerusalem. |
00:40:52 |
A son and daughter |
00:40:53 |
and their families gather today to |
00:40:57 |
and rejoice in Elia's survival. |
00:41:06 |
Kahavedjian learned photography |
00:41:08 |
he owns a photo supply store, |
00:41:11 |
custom laboratory, and portrait studio. |
00:41:40 |
Although the family now resides |
00:41:43 |
its life still revolves around |
00:41:46 |
Here, as their parents did, |
00:41:48 |
Kahvedjian's grandchildren learn |
00:41:52 |
history, and geography. |
00:41:55 |
To prepare for life in Jerusalem the |
00:41:59 |
Hebrew, and English. |
00:42:01 |
"... I am opening toe door |
00:42:05 |
I am opening the window |
00:42:09 |
I am knocking on the door |
00:42:23 |
His family thriving, |
00:42:25 |
Elia Kahvedjian remembers |
00:42:28 |
and nine boys formed when, at age 14 |
00:42:33 |
The quarters where the orphans lived |
00:42:35 |
have become the Armenian Cultural club. |
00:42:58 |
For Elia, Jerusalem has provided |
00:43:01 |
friendship and opportunity |
00:43:05 |
"This is the happiest time |
00:43:17 |
The memory of Jesus and the |
00:43:19 |
His Resurrection live in |
00:43:22 |
Just as He joined the multitudes |
00:43:24 |
that journeyed to Jerusalem |
00:43:27 |
throngs of pilgrims from around |
00:43:30 |
at Holy Week to walk in His footsteps. |
00:44:36 |
Following the path Jesus took |
00:44:39 |
and the Garden of Gethsemane |
00:44:44 |
Carrying crosses along the |
00:44:47 |
where tradition says He struggled |
00:44:49 |
they connect with the ancient passion |
00:44:58 |
In the hours before dawn |
00:45:01 |
the flames of the lamps |
00:45:02 |
that light the Church of the Holy |
00:45:06 |
When the door is opened, |
00:45:07 |
thousand of pilgrims press in to |
00:45:11 |
that has been repeated each year |
00:45:14 |
the Miracle of the Holy Fire. |
00:45:53 |
The Greek Orthodox Patriarch arrives, |
00:45:55 |
escorted by Father Timothy |
00:45:59 |
The tomb of Christ has been sealed. |
00:46:01 |
When the seal is removed, |
00:46:03 |
the Patriarch will enter to |
00:46:07 |
said to be sent down by God |
00:46:32 |
Symbol of Christ's Resurrection, |
00:46:34 |
the Holy Flame is passed to the |
00:47:20 |
It is said that here Jesus once stood |
00:47:24 |
Here He was crucified and rose again. |
00:47:28 |
In the precincts of the church that |
00:47:31 |
the hearts of the believers are |
00:47:47 |
High on the wall of the Muslim Quarter |
00:47:50 |
where American pilgrims |
00:47:53 |
settled one hundred years ago. |
00:47:56 |
Their granddaughter, Anna Grace Lind |
00:47:59 |
the path their quest began. |
00:48:06 |
Her grandmother, Anna Spafford, |
00:48:08 |
survived a shipwreck that took the |
00:48:11 |
Later, when a son also died |
00:48:15 |
"Jerusalem is where my Lord lived, |
00:48:18 |
suffered and conquered, and I, too, |
00:48:21 |
wish to learn... especially |
00:48:27 |
Like her mother and grandmother, |
00:48:28 |
Mrs. Lind has dedicated her life to |
00:48:35 |
Since 1967, she has administered |
00:48:39 |
which provides prenatal and baby |
00:48:42 |
and children who might otherwise |
00:48:52 |
Mrs. Mary Franji |
00:48:55 |
has worked here for nearly |
00:48:58 |
The grandmothers of some of these |
00:49:05 |
"Dr. Amireh has quite a number |
00:49:11 |
"The main goal of the |
00:49:14 |
is to help improve the health of |
00:49:19 |
They are mostly Moslems. |
00:49:21 |
We have several Israeli specialists |
00:49:25 |
And we feel that this is a very |
00:49:29 |
because they are helping |
00:49:33 |
between the Jews and the Arabs. |
00:49:36 |
It may be just a tiny seed |
00:49:40 |
we hope, brings forth fruit." |
00:49:43 |
"Okay, fine baby." |
00:49:49 |
"I live right on the city wall. |
00:49:51 |
I feel it's important that quotation |
00:49:57 |
'I have set watchmen on my walls |
00:50:00 |
to pray day and night until I make |
00:50:07 |
"... Make Jerusalem a praise |
00:50:11 |
"These timeless words from the Bible |
00:50:16 |
a city of glory and peace. |
00:50:24 |
In 1985 the City of David |
00:50:29 |
Amid tangible proof of its |
00:50:32 |
Mayor Teddy Kollek has come to |
00:50:38 |
Aragmatic and sensitive to human needs, |
00:50:41 |
this remarkable man has retained |
00:50:43 |
through the combined votes of |
00:50:47 |
"...when we are living in a time |
00:50:51 |
they want to see, they want to touch |
00:50:55 |
and not only believe in the abstract." |
00:51:01 |
"Jerusalem is a place where |
00:51:05 |
when names survive. |
00:51:08 |
In Jerusalem everybody |
00:51:12 |
That doesn't mean that everybody |
00:51:16 |
or church, or the mosques. |
00:51:18 |
But people believe in things. |
00:51:23 |
The people who come to Jerusalem |
00:51:27 |
because it has a special meaning |
00:51:31 |
It's not like coming to |
00:51:34 |
We try to give people a feeling |
00:51:37 |
which belongs to everybody, |
00:51:39 |
where everybody has his |
00:51:42 |
and his particular history. |
00:51:45 |
Everybody who lives in Jerusalem |
00:51:48 |
with the past Jews, Christians |
00:51:54 |
"The most important thing |
00:51:56 |
about Jerusalem is its people |
00:52:00 |
It should remain in that variety, |
00:52:03 |
one should protect that variety. |
00:52:05 |
The people who live here, |
00:52:07 |
they are the factor that |
00:52:13 |
Through the generations, |
00:52:15 |
thousands of human beings have |
00:52:18 |
to live out their lives in the |
00:52:21 |
that is the Old City of Jerusalem. |
00:52:24 |
Bound by their fierce connection |
00:52:27 |
despite their differences, |
00:52:28 |
the pressures of the years, |
00:52:30 |
of violence and suffering, |
00:52:32 |
the resilience of these people |
00:52:33 |
and the city itself has preserved |
00:52:38 |
Even in our ear of materialism |
00:52:42 |
the concepts of love, rebirth |
00:52:46 |
and peace still shine forth from |