National Geographic Okavango Africa s Wild Oasis

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00:00:05 Africa As it once was...
00:00:08 Here in the heart
00:00:11 lies a remarkable oasis
00:00:14 an immense delta called
00:00:20 It's a sanctuary for a natural
00:00:24 since the dawn of humanity.
00:00:55 The Okavango is a place like
00:00:58 rich tapestry of wild life
00:01:02 woven together by the life-giving
00:01:27 This is a world of tranquil beauty,
00:01:30 but even so the eternal struggle
00:01:39 Here too the rules of the hunt
00:01:43 to the capricious ebb and flow
00:01:50 Some prey animals
00:01:53 before they reach deep water.
00:01:58 But nowhere is truly safe.
00:02:27 The wild dogs of Africa
00:02:31 but their hunting skills
00:02:32 are rigorously challenged
00:02:35 by species of antelope especially
00:02:55 Water defines this remarkable place
00:02:57 and it often decides who
00:03:01 Who will survive,
00:03:06 Here in Africa's great waterland:
00:04:00 The heart of the Okavango
00:04:04 a maze of lagoons
00:04:07 through reeds and grasses and
00:04:12 Filtered by vegetation and sand,
00:04:15 these pure waters
00:04:26 The existence of
00:04:28 in the midst of
00:04:31 is the result of a unique interplay
00:04:41 Its source is the Okavango River,
00:04:43 one of the longest
00:04:46 On reaching Botswana,
00:04:47 it meanders between
00:04:51 Then the river spills out
00:04:55 It divides into a network
00:04:58 creating one of the largest inland
00:05:05 The delta can be seen from space
00:05:07 spreading like a giant hand
00:05:12 It's born of summer rains
00:05:15 to the north
00:05:18 Fed by these rains,
00:05:19 the Okavango River slowly winds
00:05:23 before entering the permanent swamp.
00:05:26 There it is further slowed by
00:05:31 Over the next few months,
00:05:33 the level of the permanent
00:05:38 When the new water
00:05:40 it arrives at the height
00:05:48 This is the miracle of the Okavango.
00:05:57 The delta's unique environment
00:06:01 where the river meanders
00:06:15 Thousands of carmine bee-eaters
00:06:18 in the steep sandy banks.
00:06:22 These strikingly beautiful birds
00:06:27 and other flying insects
00:06:30 They lay their eggs
00:06:33 in tunnels usually
00:06:41 This is also
00:06:43 of one of the Okavango's
00:07:02 Baby crocodiles hatch
00:07:06 it will provide them
00:07:12 Many of the young crocs will
00:07:15 into the heart
00:07:25 This permanent swamp
00:07:27 of swamp grasses, ferns and lilies.
00:07:38 This tangled world
00:07:41 half vegetation and it never dries.
00:07:44 Floodwaters
00:07:47 can double the area of the swamp
00:08:00 Elephants are
00:08:03 that venture into the heart
00:08:06 They browse on the foliage
00:08:07 while the young frolic
00:08:21 This is a sanctuary
00:08:25 a water loving antelope
00:08:26 that seldom ventures
00:08:35 And this is the only place
00:08:37 where the slatey egret
00:08:41 It's one of the rarest herons
00:08:48 The inner swamp is a nesting haven
00:08:49 for a rich variety of waterbirds
00:08:52 and there are huge colonies.
00:08:57 Here the yellow billed stork
00:08:59 can raise their hatchlings
00:09:03 Other waterbirds are drawn to
00:09:10 This saddle bill haunts the
00:09:21 The marabou storks nest
00:09:23 in low spreading fig trees.
00:09:30 Stalking the waterways the marabou
00:09:32 can sometimes bring a quick end
00:10:01 After along night of grazing,
00:10:03 hippos spend the day
00:10:08 A single hippo may transform
00:10:11 a hundred and fifty pounds
00:10:14 which in turn enriches
00:10:25 En route to favored grasslands,
00:10:28 the hippos trample pathways
00:10:31 creating channels in the waterways.
00:10:38 Now is the season when floodwaters
00:10:40 from the Okavango River are slowly
00:10:44 But here on the floodplains,
00:10:46 the water left from last year's
00:10:52 Lechwe graze in the shallow.
00:10:54 They feed on grasses
00:10:55 that sprout along the edge
00:11:02 A pack of wild dogs appears.
00:11:08 These are
00:11:17 The dogs are skilled tacticians,
00:11:19 but the Okavango poses
00:11:24 Lechwe always race for the safety
00:11:59 Lechwe have developed
00:12:01 that allow them to race
00:12:06 The dogs are
00:12:17 As the lechwe escape
00:12:20 the dogs choose to wait and watch.
00:12:46 The dog's instinct is confirmed
00:12:57 But the lechwe would rather take
00:13:00 than face certain death
00:13:46 Throughout the Okavango,
00:13:49 They provide shade and shelter
00:13:55 Baboons scale the heights to feast
00:14:01 But they're not the only ones
00:14:39 As night falls, the left-over
00:14:45 The African porcupine
00:14:53 With their strong sharp incisors,
00:14:56 the porcupine tears
00:14:59 leaving the hard inner
00:15:01 perhaps, a future palm tree.
00:15:11 The rare and endangered pangolin
00:15:15 They are among the few mammals
00:15:22 In stead,
00:15:25 by raiding ant and termite colonies.
00:15:30 When a pangolin
00:15:32 it uses powerful claws
00:15:39 Within is a complex network
00:15:42 filled with ghostly white insects
00:15:50 In a typical mound
00:15:53 And using its sticky tongue,
00:15:55 the pangolin will feast
00:16:21 Termite mounds provide
00:16:24 and prey deal jackal dens,
00:16:27 and observation posts for leopards.
00:16:38 Many of the mounds become the
00:16:43 A sweeping view of the Okavango
00:16:45 reveals them scattered
00:16:48 between the permanent swamp
00:17:29 In this season,
00:17:32 of the delta converge
00:17:35 Beyond the swamp and the islands,
00:17:38 the vast floodplains
00:17:43 Buffalo rumble far
00:17:47 With all the noise and dust,
00:17:49 it almost seems that war
00:18:02 It is the onset of the dry season
00:18:08 For these wild dogs,
00:18:12 Expectant females cleanout
00:18:15 where they can give birth in safety.
00:18:18 The wild dogs of Africa
00:18:21 only distantly related
00:18:26 Contagious diseases and hunting
00:18:28 by man have threatened them
00:18:31 But here in the heart
00:18:33 they're free to hunt and
00:18:38 When the females
00:18:41 there's little for the pack
00:18:44 Hooded vultures keep them company.
00:19:09 Only a few months ago,
00:19:12 now there are plains of grass
00:19:20 During the dry season
00:19:23 favor animals built for speed.
00:19:25 These cheetahs have
00:19:28 as their prey appear in numbers.
00:19:51 The cheetah is
00:19:54 and it will sometimes walk
00:19:57 until it's within sprinting range.
00:20:08 The prey finds camouflage
00:20:12 But one false move
00:21:18 As the victim is hauled
00:21:21 silent witnesses pass by the scene.
00:21:39 In the dry season,
00:21:40 herds of giraffes seek the last
00:21:53 Back in the den of the wild dogs,
00:21:57 Three weeks after birth,
00:21:58 the pups are finally
00:22:02 Up until now the mothers
00:22:04 have not allowed other dogs
00:22:07 But now everyone joins in,
00:22:33 In this pack while several females
00:22:37 only the dominant female
00:22:41 She even nurses the pups
00:22:45 Still the dominant female
00:22:48 on all twenty-one new arrivals.
00:23:11 One of the other females
00:23:12 perhaps a new mother herself
00:23:23 She and a cohort carry it back
00:23:30 But it is a short-lived venture
00:23:33 as the dominant female
00:23:42 She reclaims the pup as her own.
00:24:13 Millions of birds move in unison
00:24:18 engulfing the air.
00:24:24 Swirling flocks
00:24:26 on the diminishing water holes
00:24:45 The Okavango is now in the midst
00:24:49 All across the floodplains,
00:24:51 dried-out game trails radiate
00:25:03 Wildlife congregate
00:25:07 Here they'll wait out
00:25:08 the dry season until
00:25:11 which is still working its way
00:25:13 ever so slowly out
00:25:34 Small groups of buffalo
00:25:36 now mass together into
00:25:45 Water is their most critical need.
00:25:51 But the wild dogs obtain much
00:25:53 of their water needs
00:25:58 The pups even seem to
00:26:00 as they frolic in the winter sun.
00:26:42 More and more
00:26:45 Assuming the stance for stalking,
00:26:47 this pup launches
00:27:10 Out on the hunt,
00:27:11 the adult dogs survey a herd of
00:27:29 Without water nearby,
00:27:33 For this is the season
00:28:08 Hunting in packs up to
00:28:10 wild dogs are
00:28:13 They have incredible stamina
00:28:16 at times second only
00:28:58 Once in the jaws of predators,
00:29:03 The lechwe ceases its struggling
00:29:05 and appears to go into deep shock.
00:29:16 Within a few minutes
00:29:21 The dogs gorge themselves
00:29:24 because the pups and
00:29:30 The pack returns from the hunt.
00:29:33 It's time of high excitement
00:29:52 A guardian receives
00:29:55 regurgitated by one of the hunters.
00:30:02 The pups clamor
00:30:04 They too are fed regurgitated meat.
00:30:25 The pups are becoming frisky
00:30:27 launching surprise attacks
00:30:29 on their constant companions,
00:30:45 Nearby are three male lions,
00:30:48 that have roamed this area for years.
00:30:57 A lioness
00:31:00 awaits with anticipation
00:31:09 In the surrounding vegetation,
00:31:11 the others mark
00:31:18 In a bizarre looking expression
00:31:21 the male lion tests the air
00:31:23 for the scent that indicates
00:31:45 Lions have been known to copulate
00:31:49 But the duration is brief
00:31:51 from a minute to only six seconds.
00:32:00 This group of lions monopolizes
00:32:02 several prides of females
00:32:05 But still find ample time to rest.
00:32:18 The long, dry winter seems endless.
00:32:21 Day after day a remorseless sun
00:32:26 It warms the air after cool,
00:32:33 This year's floodwaters are
00:32:36 Vital pools and waterholes
00:32:42 Catfish are now concentrated
00:32:49 Fish eagles swoop down
00:32:54 They compete among themselves
00:33:12 The ponds are becoming crowded.
00:33:15 Large crocodiles
00:33:17 and the constant presence of buffalo
00:33:19 and other animals now force the
00:33:36 Every creature vies for its place
00:33:47 Young crocs seek new hiding places
00:33:52 There, they will lie dormant
00:34:04 Rolling in the mud, the buffalo
00:34:08 All the better for the marabou
00:34:10 who now had only to
00:34:18 For the fish-disaster.
00:34:21 For the birds a season of plenty.
00:34:24 Once again, water
00:34:28 determines who will survive
00:34:35 The hippo pools are now
00:34:40 In the dry, enervating air,
00:34:43 they wallow in
00:34:58 Catfish try to crawl away
00:35:07 It's a futile effort
00:35:09 are already a grisly mass
00:35:20 All over the plains there is
00:35:27 Then a rare and welcome sound
00:35:41 In a cruel twist of fate
00:35:43 this storm brings not rain
00:35:47 Lightening has set off
00:35:49 and in moments the floodplains
00:36:15 The frantic pangolin desperately
00:36:51 Many smaller creatures and insects
00:36:53 will be consumed
00:37:14 The wildfire races
00:37:17 setting palm and papyrus ablaze.
00:37:24 Burning tapers
00:37:26 spread the fire everywhere.
00:37:45 He wild dogs know from
00:37:51 The big game animals escape to
00:37:55 There the vegetation is sparse
00:37:57 and there is little
00:38:37 The fire rages for days.
00:38:39 It marches in a deadly procession
00:38:47 Rivers and channels provide
00:38:51 The towering flames
00:38:54 leap across the waterways and
00:39:20 The fire is over.
00:39:22 It has scorched thousands of
00:39:24 and has stripped great areas
00:39:26 of the permanent swamp
00:39:31 All that remains is a charred
00:39:57 Fire can be good for the delta,
00:39:59 clearing away dead vegetation and
00:40:04 But some fear that
00:40:07 could do irreversible
00:40:25 The pangolin is a survivor,
00:40:27 having found refuge in
00:40:42 The larger animals have
00:40:46 only to face an even more arid
00:40:52 But now, at last,
00:40:54 the Okavango works
00:40:57 as the new floodwaters
00:41:03 In surreal counterpoint,
00:41:05 trickles of water create tendrils
00:41:08 of dust as they advance
00:41:11 They slowly percolate
00:41:13 restoring life to the charred land.
00:41:23 Only inches deep in places,
00:41:25 the new flood spreads out
00:41:31 Some creatures
00:41:34 now perish in the rising waters.
00:41:54 The waters of the Okavango
00:41:58 from the mountains of Angola
00:42:00 they now end their journey on the
00:42:05 The water will slowly refill the
00:42:12 It also courses
00:42:15 allowing many predators
00:42:21 Myriads of fish migrate with
00:42:24 to feed on the rich
00:42:46 Not far behind are
00:43:13 Waterbirds now search
00:43:16 finding a rich concentration
00:43:45 The pelicans welcome
00:43:48 eagerly scooping up
00:44:23 For the hippos, it's time at last
00:44:37 All the animals are now forced
00:44:45 Water is once again an element
00:45:04 The wild dogs must negotiate
00:45:07 infiltrated by stealthy crocodiles.
00:45:30 They're aware that for
00:45:33 others may lurk unseen.
00:46:09 Hunting and escaping now
00:46:11 depend on crossing
00:46:26 Cheetahs are creatures
00:46:29 but those that live in the Okavango
00:46:36 They do so after much hesitation
00:47:14 After running down their prey,
00:47:26 Then they patiently wait while life
00:48:16 Nightfall and spring rains
00:48:20 as winged termites called alates
00:48:22 take flight before
00:48:31 The puff adder, too, responds
00:48:35 Now is its time to bear young.
00:49:06 With the rain,
00:49:10 and the plains turn a vivid green.
00:49:30 The wild dog pups have been
00:49:34 They're now old enough to
00:49:40 They join the pack,
00:49:41 now ranging far and wide
00:49:58 At every water crossing,
00:50:00 the adults are cautious
00:50:02 only gradually about
00:50:17 And when the chase
00:50:20 the pups must be left behind.
00:50:56 In the excitement and confusion
00:51:01 Urged on by the adults,
00:52:07 Once more,
00:52:10 and played out
00:52:13 The drama of the wild favors
00:52:17 The survival of all is insured
00:52:21 which gives no creature
00:52:25 All belong-and have
00:52:28 in the great waterland