National Geographic Return To Everest
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Return to Everest |
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In the Himalayan foothills, |
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Kathmandu long has been a crossroads |
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its streets and holy places |
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to a thousand destinations |
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Watched by the gods, |
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some seek to earn a higher form |
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some climb the steep |
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hoping to escape the tumult |
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Sometimes the destinations are |
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For sir Edmund Hillary, |
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his greatest journey would |
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It would traverse not only |
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but a less visible geography |
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the private landscapes of one man's |
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At last among the long isolated |
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Sherpas of the Khumbu region |
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it would bring a new challenge, |
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hardly 20 miles from |
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Today Hillary is a folk hero |
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With ceremonial scarves or katas, |
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the Sherpa children honor not |
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the great sahib |
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but the friendly giant |
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who has brought them |
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their first glimpses of a world |
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It has been a trade of sorts. |
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In changing their lives, |
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In the Khumbu highlands of |
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Again the peaks emerge |
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Ama Dablam, Kantega, |
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silent sentinels of Earth's |
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In the Sherpa villages |
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less habit yaks and goats are sent to stony pas |
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and the juniper smoke from |
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carries morning prayers to the gods. |
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At 13,000 feet the gods |
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Formed forty million years ago |
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by the collision |
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and the Eurasian continent, |
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Here, near Everest, |
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Tibetan Sherpas long ago |
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Here for centuries they lived |
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an island in time. |
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One man has become |
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bringing both blessings and danger. |
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With his son, Peter, |
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Sir Edmund Hillary has returned |
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but this year holds |
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it is the 30th anniversary |
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"I get quite a thrill every time |
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I come back to |
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There's so much here |
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There's also the thought of soon |
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being reunited with |
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Again they walk the village lanes, |
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welcomed by the greeting |
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and murmured "Namaste!" |
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Already fields are being prepared |
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and planted with grains or potatoes |
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for the short upland growing season. |
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Across a wall bounds |
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Phudorje, Hillary's companion |
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Everywhere young life |
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It is spring. |
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At last father and son |
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that long ago became a second home. |
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"Oh, Ang Dooli! Namaste!" |
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"Namaste!" |
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"Very good to see you." |
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"Yes, same. Namaste!" |
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"In this house I can always |
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and a cup of Tibetan tea. |
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Over the years my family and |
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with Mingma Tsering and |
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And they're still |
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In daily tasks, Ang Dooli endures. |
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Having lost eight of eleven children |
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she eagerly welcomed |
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Upon the wall hang snapshots, |
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fragments of life captured long ago... |
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Hillary's daughters Belinda |
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his wife, Louise, and the children... |
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playful Belinda the youngest child. |
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"Ah, thank you, Ang Dooli!" |
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Now a painter, |
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surviving son Temba remains |
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once common in the Khumbu. |
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"Hey, Temba!" |
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"Ah, what's that? What's that?" |
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"Thyangboche." |
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"Thyangboche." |
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"There." |
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Pivot on which so many destinies |
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it was Everest that once joined |
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the widely separated lives of |
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his Sherpa partner |
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Now, amid the peaks on the trail |
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Still strong at 69, |
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Tenzing and his daughter Deki |
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to join the anniversary festivities. |
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"Oh, Tenzing! Good to see you." |
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"...Deki." |
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"Hi, Deki. How are you?" |
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"Fine." |
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"Very nice to meet you." |
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"Hi, Peter..." |
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"Hi. Long time, Tenzing. |
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"Yes, did you have a good walk up?" |
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"Very well. Very fine, thank you." |
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In Britain today there will be |
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but Hillary and Tenzing |
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not only to be honored, |
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but to honor the families |
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who have risked and often lost |
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"Ah, that's good." |
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"Yes." |
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"Namaste, Tenzing." |
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"Namaste." |
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For a moment two aging heroes |
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look back to the victory |
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Remote, seemingly beyond |
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the towering mass of Everest |
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at mid-century had defeated |
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Then, as Nepal opened to foreigners, |
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assaults at last were possible |
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In the British Expedition of 1953, |
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already veteran of |
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would be teamed with Hillary, |
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who earlier had sighted |
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With the return of |
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the challenge was passed |
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The earlier team had reached |
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a point hardly 300 feet |
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Now, exhausted and frozen, |
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they were somber evidence of |
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But storm intervened. |
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Only after a night wracked by |
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at last climb the icy blade |
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There they left in the snow |
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a bar of chocolate and |
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At a lower camp, the main party |
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while leader John Hunt scanned |
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Then at last |
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led by a teammate lifting |
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Briefly the triumph was shared |
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Then word flashed to the world. |
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"This is the BBC Home Service. |
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Here is the news. |
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Mount Everest has been conquered |
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by members of the British Expedition |
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The news reached London |
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It said that Mr. E.P. Hillary, |
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a New Zealander, |
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had reached the summit |
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The message added, 'All is well."' |
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In London the coronation of |
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the Queen now was marked |
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For a new Queen Elizabeth, |
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an obscure New Zealand beekeeper |
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passed a boundary |
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Quickly knighted by the Queen, |
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Sir Edmund soon pledged loyalty |
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the young musician |
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Yet domestic bliss soon |
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for the wintry wastes of Antarctica. |
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There, Hillary would lead |
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a caravan of modified farm |
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setting up supply depots for |
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Hero to the world, |
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his life would become |
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seeking new challenges |
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Sometimes, |
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on less spectacular expeditions |
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in New Zealand or |
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he discovered the new adventure |
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But always Hillary |
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Long a forbidden kingdom |
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Nepal had barely 200 miles of road |
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when at last opened to |
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Its few vehicles, machines, |
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and even grand pianos were brought |
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over the southern ridges |
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Its terraced uplands, |
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were joined by a labyrinth |
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astonishing burdens were carried |
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by the hardy hill folk or |
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Later each return of the family |
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would become a journey |
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particularly for Louise |
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of their travels soon |
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Learning the country |
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the children were taken by |
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that changed his destiny and theirs |
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For the first time 12-year-old |
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that one day would draw him like |
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With deepening regard for |
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the Hillarys eagerly lent |
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opened the door to a culture |
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On a mountainside at Thami |
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they helped build a supporting |
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Its new leader was |
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believed to be the reincarnation |
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"When I first went to the Himalayas, |
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my major interest really was |
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I got to know the local people, |
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the Sherpas, |
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And by spending time in the villages, |
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it became impossible for me |
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there were so many things lacking. |
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So many things that we took for |
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they simply didn't have. |
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And because I was very fond |
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I had this sort of nagging |
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shouldn't we be trying to |
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about the future of the Sherpas? |
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And to help them to |
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that were likely to take place?" |
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Around Hillary, often watching, |
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were the beautiful Sherpa children |
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open, quick to laugh, |
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Yet untaught, their innocence |
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In all of the Khumbu there was |
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He would always remember |
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"Our children have eyes, |
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"And it was then at |
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that I decided that |
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of thinking about it for years |
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maybe I should try and |
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Abruptly, Sir Edmund Hillary |
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Drawing help from contributors in |
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he formed the Himalayan Trust |
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Today, still building after |
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he has completed and staffed |
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no fewer than 22 schools |
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"We have a good, |
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My brother, Rex, is a builder |
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And he's come over here quite a few |
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But without Mingma's organization |
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I could have done nothing." |
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The patterns of construction |
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since the building |
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Some children help |
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some children watch |
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For some, |
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"...has entered." |
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"He has entered." |
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"His house." |
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"His house." |
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"The men are climbing the mountain." |
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"The men are climbing the mountain." |
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"The mountain." |
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"The mountain." |
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"The mountain." |
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"The mountain." |
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"The men have climbed the mountain." |
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"The men have climbed the mountain." |
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"This is the thing I've |
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They always are prepared |
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And they know that |
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but they have the strength |
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In days gone by, |
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Peter, Sarah, and Belinda, |
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used to work in with |
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carrying rocks and |
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and I really think they enjoyed it. |
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It is quite exciting |
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to watch a school rise up |
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and to see the rock |
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being fashioned into |
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A rudimentary structure, unheated, |
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the new school at Chaunrikarka |
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Quickly the people gather, |
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the local spirits, |
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"I always feel a slight degree |
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of apprehension about |
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Any Sherpa gathering tends to |
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become a somewhat festive occasion |
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with the local beer and spirits |
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flowing rather freely and |
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And it's really quite a challenge |
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to survive these functions |
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"On behalf of the Himalayan Trust |
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and all those who have helped |
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I have much pleasure now |
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For the first time the children |
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Here, in this vacancy, |
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each will embark on |
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find new mountains to climb. |
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Today across the Khumbu |
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many the empty oxygen flasks used |
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Over the highland ridges more than |
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a thousand Sherpa children |
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some to schools more than |
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"Are you sleeping, |
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Brother John, Brother John. |
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Morning bell is ringing, |
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Ding done ding, |
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At Khumjung, Hillary remains |
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still enjoys visiting |
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watching children draw pictures |
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of a wider world they have never |
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Largest of Khumbu schools with |
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Khumjung has a proud record of |
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some already entering leadership |
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The soccer team, of course, |
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who quickly struggle |
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But schools are only part of |
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a wider effort by Hillary |
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Under his direction, |
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three landing strips have been |
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ending forever the centuries-long |
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In the mysterious symbols |
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passing children sometimes |
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of the world from which it came. |
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Built by Hillary, |
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at last provide medical care |
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and have brought a new awareness |
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that smoky dwellings and |
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cause many of their chronic maladies |
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At Kunde even the local lama |
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has found a new trust |
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In a region where formerly half |
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there has been |
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in the treatment of |
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and a corresponding drop |
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For some, the cure seemed |
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Here, a boy, whose hearing has |
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can hear the full wonder of sound |
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But as Hillary learned during |
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the building of |
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preparations for errands of mercy |
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Eagerly awaiting the arrival |
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and young Belinda from Kathmandu, |
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he learned that both had been |
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of their plane shortly |
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For Hillary that day was darkness, |
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the beginning of a long journey |
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across a private wasteland |
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"I didn't really know |
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from going on building the hospital, |
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and then later |
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and spent time with Mingma and |
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Ang Dooli and various |
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and that was it. And they, |
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Shaken, Hillary went back to work, |
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building new classrooms, |
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"Thin walls. A bit bulgy." |
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"Yeah." |
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"Well, I think we had better |
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"Uh, hum." |
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"You'll have to put a lot of |
00:28:00 |
"Yeah. Let's measure." |
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Now at Namche Bazar |
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he studies the damage of time |
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and weather to a school |
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draws plans for needed repairs |
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"Namaste." |
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"I think we're going to..." |
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Still Hillary's trusted sirdar |
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Mingma Tsering jokes |
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of labor in providing the lumber |
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who will cut and who will carry. |
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"...okay, carry." |
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"Will they help you carry?" |
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"Yes. It's o. k?" |
00:28:43 |
"Yeah, that's good." |
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"Big help." |
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"Those are cutting... |
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"Yep." |
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Drawn closer by tragedy, |
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Hillary and Peter each feel |
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that lies in every human attachment. |
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Now veteran climbers both, |
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each has seen close friends and |
00:29:16 |
Even Peter was nearly sacrificed |
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on the soaring altar of Ama Dablam. |
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Struck by an avalanche high |
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severely injured and |
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Peter nearly died in the two days |
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before he finally could |
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For Hillary himself the summits |
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He can never again return to |
00:30:05 |
Several times in recent years |
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he has suffered critical |
00:30:09 |
attacks of cerebral edema |
00:30:12 |
Twice in delirium he has had |
00:30:14 |
carried from the thin upper air |
00:30:16 |
to lower altitudes to save his life. |
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Today, |
00:30:22 |
must remain below 14,000 feet. |
00:30:28 |
But today with Peter and Mingma |
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view at a distance the summit |
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For at last Peter is ready to |
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he first felt as a 12-year-old boy |
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staring in awe at the mountain |
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Already Peter has made preparations |
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for an attempt on Everest |
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A geologic accident that |
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Everest has long been |
00:31:02 |
But to the Sherpas the peaks |
00:31:07 |
Migrating from Tibet |
00:31:11 |
the Sherpas found an endlessly |
00:31:16 |
where peaks and trees and streams |
00:31:18 |
appeared and vanished |
00:31:22 |
Quickly their imaginations populated |
00:31:25 |
the landscape with gods, demons, |
00:31:29 |
Even the trees were sometime |
00:31:31 |
believed to be |
00:31:41 |
In a continuing dialogue |
00:31:44 |
or disguised powers around them, |
00:31:46 |
they have given prayer |
00:31:49 |
a thousand means of transmission |
00:31:52 |
written on hand-turned |
00:31:57 |
printed on prayer flags and |
00:32:05 |
inscribed on shrines or chortens |
00:32:13 |
engraved on stone tablets or manis |
00:32:17 |
even on rocks in rivers |
00:32:26 |
Committed to the elements, |
00:32:28 |
it is hoped that the prayers |
00:32:32 |
The sun diffuses the fading prayer, |
00:32:35 |
rain spreads it through the rivers, |
00:32:38 |
wind carries it to the heavens. |
00:32:49 |
Surrounded by prayer in life, |
00:32:51 |
Sherpa are followed by prayer |
00:32:54 |
Into the ear of the dead, |
00:32:58 |
a monk chants passages from |
00:33:02 |
to guide the consciousness |
00:33:03 |
of the deceased in the interval |
00:33:13 |
Yet prayers must be learned and |
00:33:17 |
At Thami Monastery, its greatest |
00:33:21 |
must be read and taught each year. |
00:33:35 |
Once it was customary for one son |
00:33:40 |
But with the growth of tourism |
00:33:41 |
a young monk may well envy |
00:33:44 |
and wrist watch of brother |
00:33:53 |
First encountered as |
00:33:56 |
the head lama again welcomes |
00:33:59 |
With Peter and Mingma, |
00:34:00 |
Hillary has come to help |
00:34:03 |
a yearly Buddhist festival |
00:34:07 |
"Ah, Namaste." |
00:34:08 |
"Namaste. How are you?" |
00:34:09 |
"I'm very well, thank you!" |
00:34:13 |
"Namaste." |
00:34:22 |
In the courtyard of the monastery, |
00:34:23 |
helped by barelegged monks, |
00:34:25 |
Rex and the rest of |
00:34:28 |
are swiftly completing improvements |
00:34:32 |
and adjoining structures. |
00:34:55 |
With time growing short, |
00:34:56 |
Hillary and Peter also |
00:34:59 |
Soon the balcony and yard |
00:35:02 |
and a few tourists who have |
00:35:05 |
over the steep mountain trails, |
00:35:07 |
some from villages |
00:35:28 |
With a sounding of horns |
00:35:32 |
As in the religious mystery |
00:35:35 |
the Sherpas act out their myths, |
00:35:40 |
Often using the symbols of |
00:35:43 |
the dances again promise |
00:35:47 |
In the Khumbu every mountain |
00:35:51 |
Mani Rimdu exorcises the demons |
00:36:04 |
Backstage in the gompa or temple, |
00:36:07 |
another ritual is taking place. |
00:36:10 |
Donning the sacred masks |
00:36:13 |
decorated with an array |
00:36:16 |
men are becoming gods. |
00:36:18 |
For a little while |
00:36:19 |
they will become the holy figures |
00:36:55 |
Now, like a challenge, |
00:36:56 |
a crash of cymbals demands |
00:36:57 |
the attention of |
00:37:00 |
For it is in the dance of |
00:37:03 |
that the climactic struggle |
00:37:07 |
In it the benign gods |
00:37:11 |
to defeat and drive away the demons. |
00:38:42 |
Once again the protective gods |
00:38:47 |
Once again the villages are safe |
00:39:07 |
As always, the people form a line |
00:39:11 |
bring gifts wrapped |
00:39:14 |
One by one they are blessed, |
00:39:16 |
take a sip of tu or holy water |
00:39:21 |
then taste a bit of torma, |
00:39:25 |
the ritual greatly similar to |
00:39:26 |
Christian communion |
00:39:35 |
Yet, watching the rimpoche |
00:39:38 |
Hillary remembers another visit |
00:39:40 |
when the head lama was a child |
00:39:41 |
and the Hillary family |
00:39:55 |
On the western ridge above Kunde, |
00:39:57 |
Mingma's wife, Ang Dooli, |
00:40:01 |
In a more private ritual |
00:40:05 |
she and other villagers |
00:40:07 |
for Louise and Belinda Hillary. |
00:41:17 |
Yet even the Eight Furies cannot |
00:41:19 |
protect the Sherpa villagers |
00:41:23 |
Once reached only by an arduous |
00:41:27 |
the distance from Kathmandu now |
00:41:29 |
can be covered by plane |
00:41:33 |
provided of course that |
00:41:35 |
which bears some resemblance |
00:41:38 |
can be found in |
00:42:01 |
Speaking a dozen languages, |
00:42:03 |
tourists from Europe, Asia, |
00:42:05 |
and America disembark |
00:42:08 |
pass through the villages |
00:42:12 |
awakening the merchants, |
00:42:14 |
and delighting the local children |
00:42:16 |
who have discovered the blessings |
00:42:30 |
Today the Khumbu is invaded |
00:42:34 |
and porters plodding the steep |
00:42:38 |
across the upper slopes like |
00:42:43 |
More ambitious are |
00:42:47 |
Since Hillary and Tenzing |
00:42:50 |
nearly 150 men and women |
00:42:54 |
In Kathmandu there is |
00:42:57 |
booking dates on which |
00:43:00 |
climb Everest or a score |
00:43:12 |
Everywhere the sound |
00:43:16 |
Hillary tells of its impact. |
00:43:19 |
"I believe the problem of |
00:43:23 |
is a very serious one indeed. |
00:43:26 |
There are literally dozens |
00:43:29 |
being constructed with the view |
00:43:32 |
to walkers and trekkers |
00:43:35 |
This has put |
00:43:38 |
on the local timber resources. |
00:43:43 |
In the old days the Sherpas |
00:43:47 |
about where they cut firewood, |
00:43:49 |
and how much they cut. |
00:43:51 |
And the whole society was well |
00:43:55 |
All that has changed. |
00:43:57 |
Nowadays most of the upper valleys |
00:44:02 |
and many of the forests have |
00:44:08 |
As the Sherpas are learning, |
00:44:09 |
their mountain homeland is |
00:44:13 |
Not only in the Khumbu |
00:44:16 |
trees are being cut |
00:44:19 |
one third the nation's forest |
00:44:22 |
Already ravished slopes are |
00:44:27 |
No longer held by trees, |
00:44:28 |
landslides are destroying terraces |
00:44:31 |
built by centuries |
00:44:34 |
have even swept away |
00:44:57 |
With the help of |
00:44:59 |
at least one resident is being |
00:45:05 |
Relentless foragers of seedlings |
00:45:08 |
goats long have threatened |
00:45:11 |
and trees of the high country. |
00:45:25 |
Now Hillary, too, joins in a great |
00:45:30 |
warden of the Sagarmatha National |
00:45:35 |
From the scattered slopes almost |
00:45:38 |
are gathered near Namche Bazar |
00:45:40 |
and driven to the less vulnerable |
00:45:51 |
At park headquarters, |
00:45:52 |
Warden Mingma Norbu leads |
00:45:55 |
effort to save |
00:45:58 |
A student in the first school |
00:46:00 |
built at Khumjung |
00:46:03 |
he is a proud example of the |
00:46:10 |
Now, speaking both Nepali and |
00:46:13 |
he teaches a new generation |
00:46:16 |
to recognize the evidence of |
00:46:19 |
and erosion on the scarred |
00:46:22 |
He stresses the critical |
00:46:25 |
and the need for |
00:46:29 |
protecting not only |
00:46:32 |
but Sherpa culture itself. |
00:46:39 |
Celebrated in a museum photograph, |
00:46:41 |
the climbing of Everest |
00:46:44 |
hastened the changes |
00:46:53 |
Now on the thirtieth anniversary |
00:46:56 |
the Khumbu is no longer |
00:47:13 |
Yet the past sends emissaries. |
00:47:16 |
Announced by the beat of drums, |
00:47:17 |
ancient protectors of |
00:47:20 |
appear amid the villagers |
00:47:25 |
Believed to be the guardians |
00:47:28 |
"snow lions" have come down |
00:47:31 |
to dance and cavort for |
00:48:12 |
While the conquerors of Everest |
00:48:14 |
sample the home-brewed chang |
00:48:17 |
the school staff prepares a lesson |
00:48:19 |
on how mountains really |
00:48:28 |
As the guests should know, |
00:48:30 |
a little chang steadies the nerves, |
00:48:32 |
helps blur the dangers and |
00:48:43 |
A helping hand is |
00:48:50 |
Pace yourself. |
00:48:51 |
The steeper the slope, |
00:48:57 |
Try not to trip on a tangled rope. |
00:48:59 |
The fall may be |
00:49:16 |
When altitude sickness strikes, |
00:49:18 |
a whiff of oxygen can work wonders. |
00:49:30 |
When lost, look for the summit. |
00:49:31 |
That's where you're going. |
00:49:44 |
In the final assault on the last |
00:49:57 |
"I'm going to die. |
00:50:01 |
"Okay" |
00:50:03 |
"Thank you very much." |
00:50:31 |
Celebrating one journey, |
00:50:35 |
From Khumjung School |
00:51:17 |
Bearing seedlings of fir |
00:51:19 |
and rhododendron from |
00:51:21 |
the students of Khumjung school |
00:51:25 |
to the blighted slopes |
00:51:27 |
Helped by Hillary as |
00:51:31 |
they are part of |
00:51:33 |
not to seek redemption in heaven, |
00:52:13 |
Around Hillary stand |
00:52:16 |
of the journey he began long ago |
00:52:19 |
Ama Dablam, Kantega, |
00:52:27 |
the summit where he and Tenzing |
00:52:28 |
once left a bit of chocolate |
00:52:38 |
Today he has brought a richer gift |
00:52:40 |
the small beginnings of |
00:52:42 |
the little trees protect |
00:52:53 |
But the answer to prayers often |
00:52:57 |
In the opening minds of |
00:52:59 |
lies a measure of |
00:53:02 |
In them Sir Edmund Hillary |
00:53:05 |
found something more satisfying, |
00:53:08 |
than leaving a footprint |