National Geographic Return To Everest

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00:00:01 Return to Everest
00:00:24 In the Himalayan foothills,
00:00:26 Kathmandu long has been a crossroads
00:00:29 its streets and holy places
00:00:33 to a thousand destinations
00:00:45 Watched by the gods,
00:00:49 some seek to earn a higher form
00:00:54 some climb the steep
00:00:57 hoping to escape the tumult
00:01:10 Sometimes the destinations are
00:01:14 For sir Edmund Hillary,
00:01:18 his greatest journey would
00:01:29 It would traverse not only
00:01:33 but a less visible geography
00:01:35 the private landscapes of one man's
00:01:40 At last among the long isolated
00:01:42 Sherpas of the Khumbu region
00:01:46 it would bring a new challenge,
00:01:49 hardly 20 miles from
00:02:19 Today Hillary is a folk hero
00:02:23 With ceremonial scarves or katas,
00:02:25 the Sherpa children honor not
00:02:27 the great sahib
00:02:30 but the friendly giant
00:02:31 who has brought them
00:02:33 their first glimpses of a world
00:02:35 It has been a trade of sorts.
00:02:38 In changing their lives,
00:03:36 In the Khumbu highlands of
00:03:40 Again the peaks emerge
00:03:42 Ama Dablam, Kantega,
00:03:49 silent sentinels of Earth's
00:04:03 In the Sherpa villages
00:04:06 less habit yaks and goats are sent to stony pas
00:04:10 and the juniper smoke from
00:04:14 carries morning prayers to the gods.
00:04:18 At 13,000 feet the gods
00:04:26 Formed forty million years ago
00:04:28 by the collision
00:04:30 and the Eurasian continent,
00:04:37 Here, near Everest,
00:04:38 Tibetan Sherpas long ago
00:04:42 Here for centuries they lived
00:04:45 an island in time.
00:04:49 One man has become
00:04:53 bringing both blessings and danger.
00:04:55 With his son, Peter,
00:04:57 Sir Edmund Hillary has returned
00:05:00 but this year holds
00:05:03 it is the 30th anniversary
00:05:09 "I get quite a thrill every time
00:05:11 I come back to
00:05:13 There's so much here
00:05:16 There's also the thought of soon
00:05:18 being reunited with
00:05:33 Again they walk the village lanes,
00:05:35 welcomed by the greeting
00:05:37 and murmured "Namaste!"
00:05:40 Already fields are being prepared
00:05:42 and planted with grains or potatoes
00:05:44 for the short upland growing season.
00:05:53 Across a wall bounds
00:05:56 Phudorje, Hillary's companion
00:06:07 Everywhere young life
00:06:11 It is spring.
00:06:20 At last father and son
00:06:22 that long ago became a second home.
00:06:26 "Oh, Ang Dooli! Namaste!"
00:06:28 "Namaste!"
00:06:28 "Very good to see you."
00:06:30 "Yes, same. Namaste!"
00:06:38 "In this house I can always
00:06:40 and a cup of Tibetan tea.
00:06:43 Over the years my family and
00:06:47 with Mingma Tsering and
00:06:50 And they're still
00:06:54 In daily tasks, Ang Dooli endures.
00:06:58 Having lost eight of eleven children
00:07:01 she eagerly welcomed
00:07:05 Upon the wall hang snapshots,
00:07:08 fragments of life captured long ago...
00:07:11 Hillary's daughters Belinda
00:07:16 his wife, Louise, and the children...
00:07:23 playful Belinda the youngest child.
00:07:28 "Ah, thank you, Ang Dooli!"
00:07:42 Now a painter,
00:07:43 surviving son Temba remains
00:07:47 once common in the Khumbu.
00:07:51 "Hey, Temba!"
00:07:53 "Ah, what's that? What's that?"
00:07:56 "Thyangboche."
00:07:57 "Thyangboche."
00:07:57 "There."
00:08:00 Pivot on which so many destinies
00:08:03 it was Everest that once joined
00:08:05 the widely separated lives of
00:08:09 his Sherpa partner
00:08:12 Now, amid the peaks on the trail
00:08:18 Still strong at 69,
00:08:20 Tenzing and his daughter Deki
00:08:23 to join the anniversary festivities.
00:08:27 "Oh, Tenzing! Good to see you."
00:08:30 "...Deki."
00:08:33 "Hi, Deki. How are you?"
00:08:35 "Fine."
00:08:35 "Very nice to meet you."
00:08:36 "Hi, Peter..."
00:08:37 "Hi. Long time, Tenzing.
00:08:40 "Yes, did you have a good walk up?"
00:08:41 "Very well. Very fine, thank you."
00:08:49 In Britain today there will be
00:08:53 but Hillary and Tenzing
00:08:57 not only to be honored,
00:08:59 but to honor the families
00:09:01 who have risked and often lost
00:09:36 "Ah, that's good."
00:09:38 "Yes."
00:09:40 "Namaste, Tenzing."
00:09:42 "Namaste."
00:09:43 For a moment two aging heroes
00:09:48 look back to the victory
00:09:53 Remote, seemingly beyond
00:09:57 the towering mass of Everest
00:09:59 at mid-century had defeated
00:10:03 Then, as Nepal opened to foreigners,
00:10:06 assaults at last were possible
00:10:10 In the British Expedition of 1953,
00:10:15 already veteran of
00:10:18 would be teamed with Hillary,
00:10:20 who earlier had sighted
00:10:34 With the return of
00:10:36 the challenge was passed
00:10:40 The earlier team had reached
00:10:41 a point hardly 300 feet
00:10:45 Now, exhausted and frozen,
00:10:47 they were somber evidence of
00:10:52 But storm intervened.
00:11:02 Only after a night wracked by
00:11:07 at last climb the icy blade
00:11:09 There they left in the snow
00:11:11 a bar of chocolate and
00:11:16 At a lower camp, the main party
00:11:20 while leader John Hunt scanned
00:11:31 Then at last
00:11:34 led by a teammate lifting
00:11:59 Briefly the triumph was shared
00:12:02 Then word flashed to the world.
00:12:06 "This is the BBC Home Service.
00:12:09 Here is the news.
00:12:11 Mount Everest has been conquered
00:12:12 by members of the British Expedition
00:12:15 The news reached London
00:12:18 It said that Mr. E.P. Hillary,
00:12:20 a New Zealander,
00:12:23 had reached the summit
00:12:28 The message added, 'All is well."'
00:12:32 In London the coronation of
00:12:34 the Queen now was marked
00:12:38 For a new Queen Elizabeth,
00:12:39 an obscure New Zealand beekeeper
00:12:44 passed a boundary
00:12:49 Quickly knighted by the Queen,
00:12:51 Sir Edmund soon pledged loyalty
00:12:56 the young musician
00:13:02 Yet domestic bliss soon
00:13:05 for the wintry wastes of Antarctica.
00:13:08 There, Hillary would lead
00:13:10 a caravan of modified farm
00:13:14 setting up supply depots for
00:13:18 Hero to the world,
00:13:22 his life would become
00:13:25 seeking new challenges
00:13:32 Sometimes,
00:13:34 on less spectacular expeditions
00:13:36 in New Zealand or
00:13:39 he discovered the new adventure
00:13:55 But always Hillary
00:14:01 Long a forbidden kingdom
00:14:04 Nepal had barely 200 miles of road
00:14:07 when at last opened to
00:14:11 Its few vehicles, machines,
00:14:13 and even grand pianos were brought
00:14:16 over the southern ridges
00:14:25 Its terraced uplands,
00:14:29 were joined by a labyrinth
00:14:32 astonishing burdens were carried
00:14:34 by the hardy hill folk or
00:14:54 Later each return of the family
00:14:56 would become a journey
00:14:58 particularly for Louise
00:15:01 of their travels soon
00:15:11 Learning the country
00:15:14 the children were taken by
00:15:17 that changed his destiny and theirs
00:15:20 For the first time 12-year-old
00:15:24 that one day would draw him like
00:15:34 With deepening regard for
00:15:37 the Hillarys eagerly lent
00:15:40 opened the door to a culture
00:15:45 On a mountainside at Thami
00:15:48 they helped build a supporting
00:15:58 Its new leader was
00:16:01 believed to be the reincarnation
00:16:10 "When I first went to the Himalayas,
00:16:12 my major interest really was
00:16:16 I got to know the local people,
00:16:17 the Sherpas,
00:16:20 And by spending time in the villages,
00:16:22 it became impossible for me
00:16:26 there were so many things lacking.
00:16:28 So many things that we took for
00:16:31 they simply didn't have.
00:16:33 And because I was very fond
00:16:36 I had this sort of nagging
00:16:39 shouldn't we be trying to
00:16:42 about the future of the Sherpas?
00:16:44 And to help them to
00:16:46 that were likely to take place?"
00:16:51 Around Hillary, often watching,
00:16:53 were the beautiful Sherpa children
00:16:55 open, quick to laugh,
00:17:00 Yet untaught, their innocence
00:17:04 In all of the Khumbu there was
00:17:08 He would always remember
00:17:11 "Our children have eyes,
00:17:17 "And it was then at
00:17:20 that I decided that
00:17:21 of thinking about it for years
00:17:25 maybe I should try and
00:17:36 Abruptly, Sir Edmund Hillary
00:17:40 Drawing help from contributors in
00:17:43 he formed the Himalayan Trust
00:17:47 Today, still building after
00:17:50 he has completed and staffed
00:17:52 no fewer than 22 schools
00:18:01 "We have a good,
00:18:04 My brother, Rex, is a builder
00:18:07 And he's come over here quite a few
00:18:10 But without Mingma's organization
00:18:14 I could have done nothing."
00:18:18 The patterns of construction
00:18:20 since the building
00:18:24 Some children help
00:18:27 some children watch
00:18:33 For some,
00:18:55 "...has entered."
00:18:57 "He has entered."
00:18:59 "His house."
00:19:00 "His house."
00:19:01 "The men are climbing the mountain."
00:19:03 "The men are climbing the mountain."
00:19:05 "The mountain."
00:19:06 "The mountain."
00:19:08 "The mountain."
00:19:09 "The mountain."
00:19:09 "The men have climbed the mountain."
00:19:12 "The men have climbed the mountain."
00:19:23 "This is the thing I've
00:19:26 They always are prepared
00:19:30 And they know that
00:19:32 but they have the strength
00:19:35 In days gone by,
00:19:38 Peter, Sarah, and Belinda,
00:19:39 used to work in with
00:19:42 carrying rocks and
00:19:45 and I really think they enjoyed it.
00:19:52 It is quite exciting
00:19:52 to watch a school rise up
00:19:55 and to see the rock
00:19:57 being fashioned into
00:20:01 A rudimentary structure, unheated,
00:20:05 the new school at Chaunrikarka
00:20:10 Quickly the people gather,
00:20:13 the local spirits,
00:21:15 "I always feel a slight degree
00:21:17 of apprehension about
00:21:19 Any Sherpa gathering tends to
00:21:21 become a somewhat festive occasion
00:21:23 with the local beer and spirits
00:21:25 flowing rather freely and
00:21:29 And it's really quite a challenge
00:21:30 to survive these functions
00:21:42 "On behalf of the Himalayan Trust
00:21:44 and all those who have helped
00:21:48 I have much pleasure now
00:22:07 For the first time the children
00:22:12 Here, in this vacancy,
00:22:13 each will embark on
00:22:17 find new mountains to climb.
00:22:22 Today across the Khumbu
00:22:26 many the empty oxygen flasks used
00:22:30 Over the highland ridges more than
00:22:32 a thousand Sherpa children
00:22:36 some to schools more than
00:22:41 "Are you sleeping,
00:22:43 Brother John, Brother John.
00:22:45 Morning bell is ringing,
00:22:48 Ding done ding,
00:23:01 At Khumjung, Hillary remains
00:23:05 still enjoys visiting
00:23:09 watching children draw pictures
00:23:11 of a wider world they have never
00:23:17 Largest of Khumbu schools with
00:23:21 Khumjung has a proud record of
00:23:25 some already entering leadership
00:23:40 The soccer team, of course,
00:23:44 who quickly struggle
00:24:11 But schools are only part of
00:24:13 a wider effort by Hillary
00:24:16 Under his direction,
00:24:17 three landing strips have been
00:24:21 ending forever the centuries-long
00:24:35 In the mysterious symbols
00:24:38 passing children sometimes
00:24:42 of the world from which it came.
00:24:49 Built by Hillary,
00:24:52 at last provide medical care
00:24:54 and have brought a new awareness
00:24:57 that smoky dwellings and
00:24:59 cause many of their chronic maladies
00:25:03 At Kunde even the local lama
00:25:05 has found a new trust
00:25:22 In a region where formerly half
00:25:26 there has been
00:25:28 in the treatment of
00:25:30 and a corresponding drop
00:25:35 For some, the cure seemed
00:25:38 Here, a boy, whose hearing has
00:25:42 can hear the full wonder of sound
00:25:50 But as Hillary learned during
00:25:52 the building of
00:25:56 preparations for errands of mercy
00:26:00 Eagerly awaiting the arrival
00:26:02 and young Belinda from Kathmandu,
00:26:06 he learned that both had been
00:26:09 of their plane shortly
00:26:16 For Hillary that day was darkness,
00:26:19 the beginning of a long journey
00:26:21 across a private wasteland
00:26:53 "I didn't really know
00:26:55 from going on building the hospital,
00:26:57 and then later
00:27:00 and spent time with Mingma and
00:27:01 Ang Dooli and various
00:27:03 and that was it. And they,
00:27:39 Shaken, Hillary went back to work,
00:27:42 building new classrooms,
00:27:46 "Thin walls. A bit bulgy."
00:27:49 "Yeah."
00:27:51 "Well, I think we had better
00:27:53 "Uh, hum."
00:27:56 "You'll have to put a lot of
00:28:00 "Yeah. Let's measure."
00:28:06 Now at Namche Bazar
00:28:09 he studies the damage of time
00:28:11 and weather to a school
00:28:13 draws plans for needed repairs
00:28:21 "Namaste."
00:28:22 "I think we're going to..."
00:28:28 Still Hillary's trusted sirdar
00:28:31 Mingma Tsering jokes
00:28:33 of labor in providing the lumber
00:28:35 who will cut and who will carry.
00:28:38 "...okay, carry."
00:28:39 "Will they help you carry?"
00:28:40 "Yes. It's o. k?"
00:28:43 "Yeah, that's good."
00:28:45 "Big help."
00:28:46 "Those are cutting...
00:28:49 "Yep."
00:28:57 Drawn closer by tragedy,
00:28:59 Hillary and Peter each feel
00:29:03 that lies in every human attachment.
00:29:06 Now veteran climbers both,
00:29:10 each has seen close friends and
00:29:16 Even Peter was nearly sacrificed
00:29:18 on the soaring altar of Ama Dablam.
00:29:30 Struck by an avalanche high
00:29:33 severely injured and
00:29:36 Peter nearly died in the two days
00:29:38 before he finally could
00:29:57 For Hillary himself the summits
00:30:02 He can never again return to
00:30:05 Several times in recent years
00:30:07 he has suffered critical
00:30:09 attacks of cerebral edema
00:30:12 Twice in delirium he has had
00:30:14 carried from the thin upper air
00:30:16 to lower altitudes to save his life.
00:30:20 Today,
00:30:22 must remain below 14,000 feet.
00:30:28 But today with Peter and Mingma
00:30:32 view at a distance the summit
00:30:37 For at last Peter is ready to
00:30:39 he first felt as a 12-year-old boy
00:30:42 staring in awe at the mountain
00:30:46 Already Peter has made preparations
00:30:48 for an attempt on Everest
00:30:54 A geologic accident that
00:30:58 Everest has long been
00:31:02 But to the Sherpas the peaks
00:31:07 Migrating from Tibet
00:31:11 the Sherpas found an endlessly
00:31:16 where peaks and trees and streams
00:31:18 appeared and vanished
00:31:22 Quickly their imaginations populated
00:31:25 the landscape with gods, demons,
00:31:29 Even the trees were sometime
00:31:31 believed to be
00:31:41 In a continuing dialogue
00:31:44 or disguised powers around them,
00:31:46 they have given prayer
00:31:49 a thousand means of transmission
00:31:52 written on hand-turned
00:31:57 printed on prayer flags and
00:32:05 inscribed on shrines or chortens
00:32:13 engraved on stone tablets or manis
00:32:17 even on rocks in rivers
00:32:26 Committed to the elements,
00:32:28 it is hoped that the prayers
00:32:32 The sun diffuses the fading prayer,
00:32:35 rain spreads it through the rivers,
00:32:38 wind carries it to the heavens.
00:32:49 Surrounded by prayer in life,
00:32:51 Sherpa are followed by prayer
00:32:54 Into the ear of the dead,
00:32:58 a monk chants passages from
00:33:02 to guide the consciousness
00:33:03 of the deceased in the interval
00:33:13 Yet prayers must be learned and
00:33:17 At Thami Monastery, its greatest
00:33:21 must be read and taught each year.
00:33:35 Once it was customary for one son
00:33:40 But with the growth of tourism
00:33:41 a young monk may well envy
00:33:44 and wrist watch of brother
00:33:53 First encountered as
00:33:56 the head lama again welcomes
00:33:59 With Peter and Mingma,
00:34:00 Hillary has come to help
00:34:03 a yearly Buddhist festival
00:34:07 "Ah, Namaste."
00:34:08 "Namaste. How are you?"
00:34:09 "I'm very well, thank you!"
00:34:13 "Namaste."
00:34:22 In the courtyard of the monastery,
00:34:23 helped by barelegged monks,
00:34:25 Rex and the rest of
00:34:28 are swiftly completing improvements
00:34:32 and adjoining structures.
00:34:55 With time growing short,
00:34:56 Hillary and Peter also
00:34:59 Soon the balcony and yard
00:35:02 and a few tourists who have
00:35:05 over the steep mountain trails,
00:35:07 some from villages
00:35:28 With a sounding of horns
00:35:32 As in the religious mystery
00:35:35 the Sherpas act out their myths,
00:35:40 Often using the symbols of
00:35:43 the dances again promise
00:35:47 In the Khumbu every mountain
00:35:51 Mani Rimdu exorcises the demons
00:36:04 Backstage in the gompa or temple,
00:36:07 another ritual is taking place.
00:36:10 Donning the sacred masks
00:36:13 decorated with an array
00:36:16 men are becoming gods.
00:36:18 For a little while
00:36:19 they will become the holy figures
00:36:55 Now, like a challenge,
00:36:56 a crash of cymbals demands
00:36:57 the attention of
00:37:00 For it is in the dance of
00:37:03 that the climactic struggle
00:37:07 In it the benign gods
00:37:11 to defeat and drive away the demons.
00:38:42 Once again the protective gods
00:38:47 Once again the villages are safe
00:39:07 As always, the people form a line
00:39:11 bring gifts wrapped
00:39:14 One by one they are blessed,
00:39:16 take a sip of tu or holy water
00:39:21 then taste a bit of torma,
00:39:25 the ritual greatly similar to
00:39:26 Christian communion
00:39:35 Yet, watching the rimpoche
00:39:38 Hillary remembers another visit
00:39:40 when the head lama was a child
00:39:41 and the Hillary family
00:39:55 On the western ridge above Kunde,
00:39:57 Mingma's wife, Ang Dooli,
00:40:01 In a more private ritual
00:40:05 she and other villagers
00:40:07 for Louise and Belinda Hillary.
00:41:17 Yet even the Eight Furies cannot
00:41:19 protect the Sherpa villagers
00:41:23 Once reached only by an arduous
00:41:27 the distance from Kathmandu now
00:41:29 can be covered by plane
00:41:33 provided of course that
00:41:35 which bears some resemblance
00:41:38 can be found in
00:42:01 Speaking a dozen languages,
00:42:03 tourists from Europe, Asia,
00:42:05 and America disembark
00:42:08 pass through the villages
00:42:12 awakening the merchants,
00:42:14 and delighting the local children
00:42:16 who have discovered the blessings
00:42:30 Today the Khumbu is invaded
00:42:34 and porters plodding the steep
00:42:38 across the upper slopes like
00:42:43 More ambitious are
00:42:47 Since Hillary and Tenzing
00:42:50 nearly 150 men and women
00:42:54 In Kathmandu there is
00:42:57 booking dates on which
00:43:00 climb Everest or a score
00:43:12 Everywhere the sound
00:43:16 Hillary tells of its impact.
00:43:19 "I believe the problem of
00:43:23 is a very serious one indeed.
00:43:26 There are literally dozens
00:43:29 being constructed with the view
00:43:32 to walkers and trekkers
00:43:35 This has put
00:43:38 on the local timber resources.
00:43:43 In the old days the Sherpas
00:43:47 about where they cut firewood,
00:43:49 and how much they cut.
00:43:51 And the whole society was well
00:43:55 All that has changed.
00:43:57 Nowadays most of the upper valleys
00:44:02 and many of the forests have
00:44:08 As the Sherpas are learning,
00:44:09 their mountain homeland is
00:44:13 Not only in the Khumbu
00:44:16 trees are being cut
00:44:19 one third the nation's forest
00:44:22 Already ravished slopes are
00:44:27 No longer held by trees,
00:44:28 landslides are destroying terraces
00:44:31 built by centuries
00:44:34 have even swept away
00:44:57 With the help of
00:44:59 at least one resident is being
00:45:05 Relentless foragers of seedlings
00:45:08 goats long have threatened
00:45:11 and trees of the high country.
00:45:25 Now Hillary, too, joins in a great
00:45:30 warden of the Sagarmatha National
00:45:35 From the scattered slopes almost
00:45:38 are gathered near Namche Bazar
00:45:40 and driven to the less vulnerable
00:45:51 At park headquarters,
00:45:52 Warden Mingma Norbu leads
00:45:55 effort to save
00:45:58 A student in the first school
00:46:00 built at Khumjung
00:46:03 he is a proud example of the
00:46:10 Now, speaking both Nepali and
00:46:13 he teaches a new generation
00:46:16 to recognize the evidence of
00:46:19 and erosion on the scarred
00:46:22 He stresses the critical
00:46:25 and the need for
00:46:29 protecting not only
00:46:32 but Sherpa culture itself.
00:46:39 Celebrated in a museum photograph,
00:46:41 the climbing of Everest
00:46:44 hastened the changes
00:46:53 Now on the thirtieth anniversary
00:46:56 the Khumbu is no longer
00:47:13 Yet the past sends emissaries.
00:47:16 Announced by the beat of drums,
00:47:17 ancient protectors of
00:47:20 appear amid the villagers
00:47:25 Believed to be the guardians
00:47:28 "snow lions" have come down
00:47:31 to dance and cavort for
00:48:12 While the conquerors of Everest
00:48:14 sample the home-brewed chang
00:48:17 the school staff prepares a lesson
00:48:19 on how mountains really
00:48:28 As the guests should know,
00:48:30 a little chang steadies the nerves,
00:48:32 helps blur the dangers and
00:48:43 A helping hand is
00:48:50 Pace yourself.
00:48:51 The steeper the slope,
00:48:57 Try not to trip on a tangled rope.
00:48:59 The fall may be
00:49:16 When altitude sickness strikes,
00:49:18 a whiff of oxygen can work wonders.
00:49:30 When lost, look for the summit.
00:49:31 That's where you're going.
00:49:44 In the final assault on the last
00:49:57 "I'm going to die.
00:50:01 "Okay"
00:50:03 "Thank you very much."
00:50:31 Celebrating one journey,
00:50:35 From Khumjung School
00:51:17 Bearing seedlings of fir
00:51:19 and rhododendron from
00:51:21 the students of Khumjung school
00:51:25 to the blighted slopes
00:51:27 Helped by Hillary as
00:51:31 they are part of
00:51:33 not to seek redemption in heaven,
00:52:13 Around Hillary stand
00:52:16 of the journey he began long ago
00:52:19 Ama Dablam, Kantega,
00:52:27 the summit where he and Tenzing
00:52:28 once left a bit of chocolate
00:52:38 Today he has brought a richer gift
00:52:40 the small beginnings of
00:52:42 the little trees protect
00:52:53 But the answer to prayers often
00:52:57 In the opening minds of
00:52:59 lies a measure of
00:53:02 In them Sir Edmund Hillary
00:53:05 found something more satisfying,
00:53:08 than leaving a footprint