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National Geographic The Soul of Spain
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In the courtyard of Madrid's Royal Palace |
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the King's Guard recalls an era of |
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regal splendor, privilege |
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and might in Spain's past |
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Viva! |
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But the saga of Juan Carlos is |
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When he became king in 1975 |
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he took the reins of government |
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He was to inherit a land touched by |
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a land chosen by destiny to become the |
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then doomed to lapse into decades of |
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In the extraordinary reign of Juan Carlos |
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Spain has leapt into the 20th century |
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Un, dos, y... |
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But as new ideas |
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the Spanish people cherish the ways |
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Mindful of the grandeur of their past |
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they nurture and treasure the timeless |
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that illuminate the Soul of Spain |
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Spain. Dramatic, mysterious, complex |
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Greatness and tragedy resonate in |
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It gave the world the essence of |
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the quintessence of cruelty |
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Long after the rest of Europe |
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Spain remained poor and agrarian |
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Hereditary noblemen and wealthy families |
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controlled it by the laws and privileges |
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Inward looking |
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the people proudly clung to their |
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Who are they? |
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Where did they come from? |
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What shaped the Spanish soul? |
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Lying astride the Atlantic and |
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Spain has been called "that country |
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soldered crudely to inventive Europe |
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First settled by wandering tribes |
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it would be colonized by Phoenicians |
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Carthaginians, and Greeks |
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By 19 B.C. |
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the triumphant Romans dominated the |
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They would leave their indelible imprint |
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Later, Roman missionaries would |
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Led by Arab warriors |
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in 711 Berbers from North Africa swept |
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Soon their rule and Muslim religion |
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Working side by side |
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Muslim, Christian |
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and Jewish scholars relit the torch of |
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that led Europe out of the Dark Ages |
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Cordoba, capital of Muslim Spain |
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became Europe's most cultured city |
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boasting half a million inhabitants |
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But through the eight centuries of |
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the Christians waged war to reconquer |
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until only Granada survived as a |
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In 1492 the last Muslim king |
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surrendered his crown to the Catholic |
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Through war and Inquisition Spain would |
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but all Jews who refused to be baptized |
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Seeking a westward route to |
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Ferdinand and Isabella would provide |
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Christopher Columbus with financial |
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On the 33rd day of his voyage |
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Columbus landed in the New World |
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and claimed it in the name of the |
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Spain would conquer huge empires |
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Gold wrested from native peoples would |
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and Spain would become the world's |
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But two centuries later |
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its navy defeated |
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its empire in shambles |
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Spain's era of supremacy was over |
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A long eclipse had begun |
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With the Second Republic torn |
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Spain is plunged into bloody civil war |
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An alliance of army officers, |
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and the Catholic Church joins the |
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They are supported by |
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in a conflict that becomes a dress |
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The death toll from combat |
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and executions will cost |
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With the fall of Madrid |
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General Francisco Franco |
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commander of the |
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assumes powers greater than those of |
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Nationalist, rightist, and authoritarian |
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the dictator Franco embarks on 36 years |
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When World War II rages across Europe |
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the wily Franco manages to keep Spain |
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The role of women remains static |
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circumscribed by church tradition |
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Physically shattered and spiritually |
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the nation will need years to heal |
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Franco orders construction of the |
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to commemorate the Civil War dead |
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Although named E1 Caudillo |
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The Leader for life |
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he knows that someday he too will |
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Believing a monarchy would best |
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Franco selects as his successor |
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Born in exile |
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Juan Carlos first set foot |
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His father |
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had acquiesced to Franco's desire |
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The prince would spend four years |
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and Air Force academies |
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attend university |
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and complete his studies at a number |
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The nation observes the end of an era |
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For nearly four decades Franco had made |
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Juan Carlos, rarely seen except |
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was perceived to be molded in his image |
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Would the nation again erupt in rebellion? |
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Juan Carlos swore his allegiance |
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"Desde la motion en el recuerdo Franco, |
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Viva! |
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Viva Espagna! |
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Viva! |
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Perceptive and intelligent |
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he had privately concluded Spain |
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he had prepared himself for it |
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To everyone's surprise |
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he deftly led his people from |
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A king who pays taxes lives modestly |
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and is an avid sports enthusiast |
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he soon became the most popular man |
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His greatest test came in 1981 |
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when parliament was invaded by |
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commanded by a right-wing colonel |
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As an amazed public watched on television |
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the colonel called for a return to |
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Working through the night |
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the king obtained pledges of loyalty |
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from his principal military leaders |
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and quelled the attempted coup |
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His reassuring address to the people |
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The Crow... cannot tolerate actions |
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attempting to interrupt by force |
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Under his leadership a vital and dynamic |
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New Spain has become an economic |
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The nation is an eager new member of |
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Its thirty-nine million citizens |
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have a higher standard of living than |
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And there is freedom |
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of religion, of expression |
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The repression of old has evaporated |
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A burst of growth has transformed |
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Every year Spain attracts 50 million |
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more than the country's total population |
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They bring billions of dollars |
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new ideas and customs |
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The Spaniards |
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once Europe's poor relations |
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have become conspicuous consumers |
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But behind the facade of modern Spain |
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echoes of an older way of life still |
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In the same year that Franco died |
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so did Don Fernando de la Camara |
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one of the wealthy landowners who |
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Camar's presence can still be felt |
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where his heir, Rocio, lives |
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She is now head of her family's |
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As her father did |
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Rocio grows wheat and sunflowers and |
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Every year the new calves are rounded |
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In this tough and traditionally |
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Rocio has found acceptance |
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Of course it's harder being a woman |
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but society is changing and nowadays |
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there are no real problems, |
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If I were a man |
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I'd wrestle those calves |
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but as a woman, I can't |
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But there are many important things |
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where being a woman makes no difference |
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Diego Reina has been employed |
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He helped raised Rocio |
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and when her father died continued |
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He has had other job offers |
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but he respects and admires Rocio |
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He says he will never leave. |
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Unlike his peers of 25 years ago |
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Diego receives an adequate income |
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has his own house |
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and can look forward to retirement |
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Today Diego has the right to vote |
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but like many others |
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still prefers the old ways |
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Personally, I felt more at ease under |
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Nobody bothered anybody |
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You could bed down in the fields anywhere |
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Now you can't |
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In the last few years before Franco died |
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life was peaceful in the country |
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We ate well in the country and we could |
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Who saves anything nowadays? |
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Whether Juan, Pedro |
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or Antonio is in charge |
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the land is the same |
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We live off the land and die for |
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It's always the same, always the same |
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Diego's land is Andalucia |
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In this southernmost region of Spain |
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olive trees and vineyards have thrived |
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Only here in all the world |
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in a small area of chalky |
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moisture-retaining soil |
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is true sherry wine produced |
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In 1730 |
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a French farmer founded a sherry dynasty |
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Today, the heirs of Pedro Domecq |
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are the second largest producers of |
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part of an elite referred to as |
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Still, even at age 77 |
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Jose Ignacio Domecq enjoys driving |
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purchased from his chauffeur |
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At the manor house that overlooks |
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he meets his eldest son |
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The manor was built around an |
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used during the Middle Ages to send |
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only 65 miles away |
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It provides a vantage point |
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from which the Domecqs can confer |
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about the 4,300 acres of vineyards |
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One day the younger Jose Ignacio |
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will take control of their wine |
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and brandy empire is Spain and |
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Domecq produces 10 million liters |
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The most vital element in creating a |
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specifically, the human nose |
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In the bodegas where sherry matures |
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the Domecqs exercise the delicate skill |
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which has made the family masters of |
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We maintain our standardization of |
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throughout the different generations |
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My father is known in the wine world... |
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...for the nose |
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not only because of the size of it |
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that is you have seen rather big |
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but because he's considered one of the... |
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...most important specialists in Europe |
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The unique quality of sherry |
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New sherry is blended with more mature |
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Fortified with grape brandy and |
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it ages in oak casks until it reaches |
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The most venerable bodega holds casks of |
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Among them is one once reserved |
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King of England |
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A cask was dedicated to Napoleon in 1812 |
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And after the battle of Trafalgar |
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Admiral Lord Nelson's body was shipped |
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perfectly preserved |
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At his nearby estate |
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one of the 500 relatives who are |
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in the Domecq corporation indulges |
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For 20 years Alvaro Domecq |
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like his father before him |
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was famed for his prowess in the Spanish |
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Today, he raises fine Andalucian horses |
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and hulls to fight in the ring |
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Bullfighting was once the leisure |
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Farmhands assisted with their capes |
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Modern bullfighting performed |
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only two centuries ago |
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Bullfights are the highlight of the |
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For this special event six local |
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in the competition for Best of the Year |
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Domecq is here |
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sharing the crowd's anticipation |
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and hoping his bull will bring honor |
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Victor Mendes |
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the matador who will face that bull |
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prepares for his test as he dons the |
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The bullring manager |
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come bearing the only protection |
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they can offer "Suerte" |
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As his sword handler makes |
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Mendes reflects on the trial ahead |
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It's now a fight or game between the |
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if is possible to arrive to the death |
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the death of the bull |
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But sometimes, the death of the man |
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To the Spaniard the bullfight |
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but a revered ritual |
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Its origins can be traced to pagan |
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and to ancient Greek and Roman games |
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In its beauty, glorification of bravery |
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and disdain for death |
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the bullfight embodies traditional values |
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More than spectacle |
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this is mythic theater |
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in which the drama of life and death |
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culminating in the predictable |
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but by no means certain |
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death of a noble beast. |
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In recent years it has lost popularity |
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and there is increasing disquiet |
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among a minority of Spaniards about |
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But for some |
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it remains an irreplaceable thread |
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As the afternoon turns to evening |
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crowds begin to gather |
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In this weeklong celebration women wear |
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friends meet, sip sherry, |
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The region of Extremadura |
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has always been harsh and ungiving |
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For decades Azuaga |
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like many small agricultural |
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has slowly but steadily lost |
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The future looks bleak unless young |
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Among the few professionals here is a |
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assigned to the local clinic |
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Their 16-year-old daughter, Alicia |
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feels trapped in the stifling atmosphere |
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This is a small town |
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There isn't much for me to do |
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I'm not sure whether so stay or leave |
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I'll probably leave |
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but I still haven't decided |
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The lack of entertainment |
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even participation in sports |
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all make teenagers yearn for greater |
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The old ways hold no allure |
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When Alicia's parents accept job offers |
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she is thrilled to go with them |
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She will become one of the thousands |
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Spain's new constitution |
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carefully spells out the equality of |
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After high school |
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Alicia hopes to join the growing ranks |
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"Then after a couple of years |
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I'll study business management |
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and after that join a big company |
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I'd work my way to the top |
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As a businesswoman |
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I'd like to travel a lot in my work |
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Today, many women are entering |
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in government |
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The unemployment rate of women is |
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But like Alicia |
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they pursue an alluring dream |
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Spain's greatest contemporary poet |
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described flamenco as deeper than |
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and the voice singing it |
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It comes from the first sob |
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Flamenco was born in Andalucia |
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when Arabic and Spanish music mingled |
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The gypsies were to adopt it and |
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in their wanderings |
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Francisca Sadornil |
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La Tati as she is known |
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was born here in Madrid |
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She learned flamenco dancing |
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married a gypsy in her youth |
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and remains among the rare outsiders |
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accepted by them artistically and |
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A professional dancer from the age of 12 |
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La Tati has dedicated her life |
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And flamenco has taken La Tati |
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to the concert stages of the world |
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She reminisces |
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I can't remember a time |
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I was born on Toledo Street |
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and there all the neighbors |
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At No.5 of the Plaza de la Cascorro |
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the dancing professor of Seville |
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I went to Quica when I was about seven |
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I never paid for a dancing class |
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because there was not money |
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I slept at the academy on a mattress |
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I helped Quica clean the academy |
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and did the errands |
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and this way I learned to dance |
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Today, she passes her knowledge to |
| 00:35:08 |
She reflects on teaching |
| 00:35:13 |
With recording |
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singers and movie actors can leave |
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but with dancing it's a little more |
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If you don't do it through teaching |
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you can't leave a school of dance |
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This is why I like teaching very much |
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La Tati is highly sought as a teacher |
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But as an artist |
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she gets her deepest satisfaction |
| 00:36:14 |
My life is shaped on the stage |
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All that I feel or live for, |
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all my suffering and all my glory |
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all my life is on the stage |
| 00:36:32 |
She rehearses for a tour that will |
| 00:36:53 |
The quality of flamenco |
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is to get out of a difficult situation |
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to get into an explosion of happiness |
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and a feeling born in the soul |
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Flamenco is an expression of the soul |
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The guitar is the instrument of Spain |
| 00:38:01 |
In the working-class neighborhood |
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Arcangel Ferbabdez has hand-crafted |
| 00:38:16 |
I had my first job at 11 as a |
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Later I became fond of playing the guitar |
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I started to play flamenco |
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Then I met a great maestro of guitar |
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one of the best in the world |
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Since I had found that the artistic |
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I found myself turning to guitar making |
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Only fine |
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imported woods are used to create |
| 00:38:59 |
They are carefully heated and shaped |
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as the craftsman gradually brings the |
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To make a good handcrafted guitar you |
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The difference between handcrafted |
| 00:39:21 |
starting with materials |
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The materials we use are quite expensive |
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You must have knowledge of the trade |
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For me that is the secret for making |
| 00:39:34 |
Nothing else |
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Signed and numbered by the craftsman |
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a finished instrument may cost from two |
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Through this artist's expression |
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the guitar gives voice to |
| 00:41:11 |
During the decades of Franco's |
| 00:41:14 |
the Catholic Church was able to |
| 00:41:20 |
Even between engaged couples |
| 00:41:21 |
premarital contact was forbidden |
| 00:41:24 |
by the strictures of traditional |
| 00:41:27 |
Among the middle and upper classes |
| 00:41:30 |
could not go out without a female |
| 00:41:37 |
Today young woman go out alone |
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and party at bars until 4 a. m |
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Agatha Ruiz de la Prada is among the |
| 00:41:54 |
who now define their own roles in society |
| 00:42:08 |
Agatha lives in a quiet Madrid suburb |
| 00:42:11 |
Tristan, and the boy's father |
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Her seemingly bourgeois home life |
| 00:42:26 |
My mother and father separate |
| 00:42:30 |
And my mother goes to live to Barcelona |
| 00:42:33 |
So for me it was very nice |
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because I have two cities and two houses |
| 00:42:39 |
and I have always the liberty of |
| 00:42:43 |
I have never believed in marriage |
| 00:42:46 |
Liberty is very important for me |
| 00:42:48 |
and marriage is something that |
| 00:42:58 |
Ruiz de la Prada is a designer |
| 00:43:02 |
These dolls, whose costumes |
| 00:43:04 |
she creates, sold over a million |
| 00:43:14 |
She also designs highly original clothing |
| 00:43:21 |
When I was little |
| 00:43:22 |
I wanted to be a painter |
| 00:43:26 |
One thing that I have ever hate |
| 00:43:30 |
is the big distance between a picture on |
| 00:43:39 |
I think that you |
| 00:43:40 |
when you like some picture |
| 00:43:42 |
you must wear it. No? |
| 00:43:43 |
And you must eat with it |
| 00:43:45 |
and you must sleep with it |
| 00:43:47 |
You must put it in your life |
| 00:43:57 |
Humorous and deliberately outrageous |
| 00:44:00 |
her design has brought her international |
| 00:44:13 |
The impulse behind them |
| 00:44:15 |
in fact, springs from |
| 00:44:18 |
that of the rugged individualist |
| 00:44:47 |
Barcelona |
| 00:44:49 |
Spanish's largest seaport the nation's |
| 00:44:52 |
and industrial powerhouse |
| 00:44:58 |
Barcelona is also the center of a rich |
| 00:45:00 |
and highly original artistic tradition |
| 00:45:06 |
This legacy is evident everywhere... |
| 00:45:09 |
in a mosaic pavement created |
| 00:45:18 |
A design created by Picasso |
| 00:45:20 |
in his self-imposed exile |
| 00:45:32 |
and the undulating curves of a facade |
| 00:45:38 |
A genius who used the sinuous forms |
| 00:45:41 |
as the vocabulary for his architecture |
| 00:45:44 |
Gaudi was dubbed visionary-and madman |
| 00:45:54 |
Son of a coppersmith |
| 00:45:55 |
he was modest and self-effacing |
| 00:45:58 |
refused by the one woman to whom he |
| 00:46:01 |
he would dedicate his life exclusively |
| 00:46:07 |
He maintained |
| 00:46:09 |
God continues creation through man |
| 00:46:14 |
In 1884 he began work |
| 00:46:16 |
in the Sagrada Familia the Expiatory |
| 00:46:22 |
It would be his masterpiece |
| 00:46:27 |
But in 1926 |
| 00:46:28 |
returning from evening church services |
| 00:46:33 |
Gaudi was struck by a streetcar |
| 00:46:36 |
Three days later he died |
| 00:46:42 |
Thousands followed the funeral cortege |
| 00:46:47 |
the crypt of his unfurnished basilica |
| 00:46:57 |
Today, Gaudi's vision continues |
| 00:47:03 |
From the beginning |
| 00:47:04 |
construction has been funded |
| 00:47:11 |
Only some 50 artists and craftsmen |
| 00:47:20 |
Architect Jordi Bonet |
| 00:47:21 |
like his father a specialist |
| 00:47:25 |
has been entrusted with completion |
| 00:47:34 |
As much a sculptor as an architect |
| 00:47:36 |
Gaudi preferred to make models |
| 00:47:41 |
Using them |
| 00:47:42 |
Bonet is able to continue according |
| 00:47:54 |
A model of the nave |
| 00:47:56 |
the central part of the church |
| 00:47:57 |
reveals columns whose design was |
| 00:48:03 |
They will support the ceiling of the nave |
| 00:48:06 |
filling the shell that has stood empty |
| 00:48:15 |
With all of these Gaudi original |
| 00:48:20 |
it is possible to continue it |
| 00:48:29 |
But it is not so easy to continue it |
| 00:48:33 |
but I hope to have or to honor in the |
| 00:48:39 |
And for them we are working with all our |
| 00:48:46 |
Gaudi said the nave of this temple |
| 00:48:49 |
is a forest with the columns |
| 00:48:54 |
And then the light comes through |
| 00:49:00 |
little columns |
| 00:49:01 |
big columns |
| 00:49:03 |
It's a forest |
| 00:49:08 |
Gaudi's dream was that this church |
| 00:49:14 |
Every year hundreds of thousands |
| 00:49:18 |
visit his unfinished poem in stone |
| 00:49:22 |
a structure one architectural historian |
| 00:49:24 |
has called the greatest ecclesiastical |
| 00:49:40 |
Holy week. Across the nation |
| 00:49:42 |
cities and villages ready for a ritual |
| 00:49:45 |
that occurs in few places outside Spain |
| 00:49:48 |
and nowhere with more passion that |
| 00:49:58 |
Manolo Acosta dresses in the garb of |
| 00:50:06 |
For me, Holy Friday is one of the |
| 00:50:11 |
so important that I am thinking about |
| 00:50:21 |
With his brotherhood he will accompany |
| 00:50:22 |
sacred figures form their neighborhood |
| 00:50:44 |
Thousands gather in anticipation of |
| 00:50:47 |
when a priceless, handcarved image of |
| 00:51:18 |
Platforms called pasos support lavish |
| 00:51:23 |
Christ, and scenes of his passion |
| 00:51:31 |
From Palm Sunday until Easter |
| 00:51:32 |
processions retrace the Stations |
| 00:51:46 |
Proceeding blindly under the directions |
| 00:51:49 |
30-40 bearers support the pasos |
| 00:52:06 |
Marching with their brotherhoods |
| 00:52:07 |
thousands of penitents atone for sins |
| 00:52:15 |
They wear masks and hoods |
| 00:52:16 |
designed centuries ago to conceal the |
| 00:52:52 |
As the people of Spain approach |
| 00:52:56 |
they seek to define their new identity |
| 00:52:59 |
strengthened by the timeless elements |
| 00:53:03 |
the ardor for spectacle and beauty |
| 00:53:06 |
the rich history, proud land |
| 00:53:10 |
and enduring traditions that are |
