|
Ganges
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NARRATOR: Nowhere else on Earth |
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are the natural and the spiritual worlds |
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This is a place where fire and air, |
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animals and trees, |
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mountains and rivers |
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One of the most powerful of these |
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She is a water goddess, who blesses |
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in a thousand different ways. |
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For millennia, she has brought shape |
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and provided sustenance |
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to the countless millions who have lived |
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All around her, the great cycles |
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are endlessly played out. |
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And flowing through these natural |
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India's river of life. |
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India has many sacred rivers |
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but it's the Ganga, or Ganges, that lies |
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To reach its delta on the shores |
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the river has flowed for 1,500 miles |
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across northern India's |
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But the Ganges starts life |
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Cold and imposing, the high peaks |
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Dev Bhoomi, the Land of the Gods. |
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It's here that the Ganges is born. |
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The source of the Ganges |
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But where, |
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does India's most venerated river |
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In this mystical landscape, |
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divining the origin is as much |
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Ancient temples honour four streams |
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But which is the true source |
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By winter's end, |
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as the Himalaya's most secretive hunter. |
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The snow leopard is a fabulous, |
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Only a few now haunt the slopes, |
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tracking bharal, or blue sheep, |
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After months of hardship, |
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even an old goat carcass can mean |
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And not just for scavengers, |
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But by the end of April, |
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As spring creeps up into the mountains, |
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temples and villages abandoned |
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And so does the Ganges. |
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Released from the grip of winter, |
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water begins to flow again |
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In turn, these streams |
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These pilgrims are climbing towards |
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They carry with them an effigy of Shiva, |
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destined for its summer home |
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3,500 metres up in the Himalayas. |
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Unoccupied for the wintry months, |
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this thousand-year-old temple |
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Pikas get a rude awakening |
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Kedarnath is a hard four-day climb |
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and the procession's arrival |
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In just a few days, the whole valley |
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as the countercurrents |
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ebb and flow across the slopes. |
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Through the short summer season, this |
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for hundreds of thousands of pilgrims |
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But while Kedarnath is revered |
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in truth, there are many streams that |
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And all of them |
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before finally becoming |
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And at these lower altitudes, |
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As the strengthening sun warms the land, |
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lammergeiers soar |
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They scour the forested valleys, |
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effortlessly covering 25 miles or more |
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Lifted on wings three metres across, |
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the lammergeier is one of |
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Not that this intimidates |
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Despite their imposing size, |
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they survive largely |
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The solitary youngster |
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perched precariously on the nest's ledge |
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before finally being ready to follow |
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Bathed in spring sunshine, the valleys |
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Water-loving birds, |
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are busy attending |
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These lower slopes |
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Now this woodland is confined |
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The dominant tree here is the deodar. |
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These 60-metre giants are known locally |
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an appropriate home for one of India's |
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Langurs are revered as |
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the monkey god. |
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After a winter surviving on |
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the spring greenery brings |
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These mountain monkeys have occasionally |
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which may have given rise |
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In these magical forests, it seems |
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could be embodied in the same creature. |
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And at the heart of this awakening world |
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is the growing presence of Ganga, |
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With each passing day, |
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the spring meltwater surges down |
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In the lower reaches |
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Himalayan mahseer are gathering. |
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The world's largest carp, these powerful |
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migrating between spawning grounds |
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and these more placid lowland waters. |
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But today these are perilous journeys |
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as poaching takes a heavy toll |
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One of the few sanctuaries |
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are the ceremonial steps, or ghats, |
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Here, they grow huge on handouts |
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The largest might be a metre long |
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But in these increasingly |
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they have to share these sacred waters |
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are having ever greater demands |
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Villagers use every stream |
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to irrigate tier upon tier of terraces |
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Winter-sown crops, like barley and |
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And come May, it's not just |
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Even as the crops are being cut, |
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troops of macaques |
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ready to mop up |
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Despite appearances, |
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Almost as soon as the crop |
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these tiny fields are ploughed, |
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to be harvested in the autumn. |
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This intensive farming is only possible |
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because of the huge quantities of |
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This predictable and plentiful |
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is the Ganges' first great gift |
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Without it, the entire region |
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Small wonder that for millennia |
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this gift has been seen as a blessing |
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and the river itself |
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possessed of abundant |
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(PRIEST CHANTING) |
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By May, the mountains |
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and the first rush of meltwater |
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Shepherds drift their flocks up through |
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Their guard dogs wear metal collars, |
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vital protection against the lethal bite |
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Today, leopards thrive around |
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attracted by the goats |
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And these goat herds have brought |
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Voracious and indiscriminate eaters, |
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their grazing dramatically slows |
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Rhododendrons are one of the few plants |
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And by June, they are in full bloom. |
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Migrating butterflies fuel up |
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while rose finches, tits and warblers |
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feed on other insects |
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These tangles of rhododendron |
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are home to one of the most |
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Musk deer are shy and retiring, |
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They tend to emerge at dawn and dusk |
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to feed on the lichens |
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The males' tusks have more to do |
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But what really sets them apart |
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Musk is highly prized |
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and in traditional medicine, |
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so these tiny deer |
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Although now protected, |
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thousands are still illegally killed |
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Despite the idyllic surroundings, |
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Casualties don't go unnoticed for long. |
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A lammergeier is first on the scene. |
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It won't be alone for long. |
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Plucky crows push to get in on the act. |
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But they're not the main threat. |
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Griffin vultures home in on the carcass |
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And once the discovery has been made, |
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The solitary lammergeier |
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among these aggressive |
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It must step aside and wait for scraps. |
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But it's the returning shepherds |
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that settle the dispute |
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Forty miles and several valleys |
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is the village of Yamunotri, |
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the second sacred source of the Ganges. |
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(TEMPLE BELL RINGING) |
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In reality, this temple marks |
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of the Ganga's sister river, the Yamuna, |
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and is not in any sense |
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But this stream and temple |
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Before paying their respects, |
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in the natural hot springs |
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Devotees cook rice, as an offering |
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But the real significance of Yamunotri |
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is what these steaming |
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about the deep and violent origins |
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Origins that stretch back |
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For 70 million years, India has been |
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and ploughing its way into Asia. |
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The land caught between |
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has been squeezed and folded upwards |
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to form the Himalaya, |
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And they are still rising |
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As the mountains continue to grow, |
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the meltwater rivers must carve |
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But thawing glaciers and melting snow |
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that feed the Ganges. |
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As the Indian summer progresses, |
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these mountain streams are about to get |
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Mountains create their own weather, |
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and in the biggest range in the world, |
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Sudden storms pepper the hills |
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returning the summer meadows |
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Yet even as the summer begins |
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pilgrims are still making journeys |
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Many are heading deep into the hills, |
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the third of the sacred sources |
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(TEMPLE BELLS RINGING) |
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Close to the Tibetan border, |
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the brightly coloured temple |
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But the site's religious significance |
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Animal gods carved into its facade |
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of just how intertwined the natural and |
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Surrounded by some |
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Badrinath attracts |
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and some of the most |
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Those who can, walk. |
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Those who can't are carried. |
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The pull of these remote shrines |
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To visit the sacred sources brings |
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helping speed their journey |
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But once again, as with |
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this fierce torrent cannot be seen |
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at least not geographically. |
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The river at Badrinath is fed by |
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tumbling down from some of |
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and awe-inspiring corners |
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Dominating the scene is Nanda Devi, |
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Regarded as a goddess in her own right, |
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one of the most magical places in India. |
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Covered in snow for much of the year, |
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the valley is transformed |
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into a botanical wonderland, |
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the Valley of Flowers. |
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Who could not believe |
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Every day, clouds wash over |
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coaxing new blooms |
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Over 600 plant species |
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And by the end of July, Himalayan Balsam |
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Through the short summer season, |
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Male monal pheasants |
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trying to attract a mate. |
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And in the warm air, newly emerged |
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But for others, life in the valley |
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Goral are small goat antelopes, |
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perfectly suited to life |
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Small family groups must |
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before the summer ends. |
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The profusion of meadow flowers |
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with one of their |
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In these remote valleys, virtually |
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Watered by mountain streams |
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the village terraces |
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It feels like a high-altitude |
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But harsh realities are never far away. |
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In just two months, this village and |
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will be abandoned for the winter. |
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And even the summer nights |
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After dark, the village takes on |
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Stock is brought in, dogs are chained |
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and doors are bolted. |
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The villagers close themselves off |
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Asiatic black bears |
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and late summer is the time for them |
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as they stock up for the coming winter. |
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(DOGS BARKING) |
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The village terraces are irresistible. |
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And it's not just bears on the prowl. |
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Foxes take their pick |
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And in the shadows, an even more |
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Although the leopards are mainly |
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they have a darker side |
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This isn't new. |
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These valleys have often |
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In the 1920s, one male leopard killed |
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many of them pilgrims |
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Today, such events |
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The old foot trails have been |
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which means thousands of pilgrims |
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even the remotest of mountain shrines. |
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And this one, the last of the four |
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is the busiest and most important temple |
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This is Gangotri, |
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the place where Hindus believe |
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As a goddess, Ganga originally |
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but her purifying powers |
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to cleanse the ashes of the dead. |
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Ganga agreed to come to the aid |
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but the impact of her descent |
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So another god, Shiva, intervened. |
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At Gangotri, he caught |
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cushioning her arrival |
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into thousands of lesser streams. |
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The spectacular waterfall here |
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of that tumultuous descent. |
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But even Gangotri can't be |
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The river here is already wide |
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fed by one of the Himalaya's |
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Just a few hundred years ago, |
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reaching right down to the village. |
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Now, in the face of rising temperatures, |
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Only the most determined |
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to the farthest extremity of the river. |
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Their destination is Gaumukh, |
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an ice cave from which flows |
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This cold and lonely place is considered |
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For most pilgrims, |
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just time for a few prayers |
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Yet even here, |
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that is defining the source. |
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Higher still, up above the glacier, |
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If the source of a river is the point |
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then it's here, |
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that the spiritual |
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finally come together. |
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Surrounded and protected |
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nowhere could be more fitting as |
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Few visit this wild place. |
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Only the hardiest sadhus, or holy men, |
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come to pay their respects |
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These mountain slopes feed |
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A thin covering of grasses attracts |
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Their phantom-like predator follows. |
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At over 4,000 metres, the summer heat |
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but at night, most freeze over. |
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This daily round of freeze and thaw |
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prises rocks away |
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These landslips expose |
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They're still shedding |
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In doing so, they lose minerals |
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which must be replaced |
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Freshly exposed saltlicks |
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no matter what the danger. |
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For the unwary, these isolated meadows |
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Hindus believe the source of the Ganges |
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is a crossing point between |
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By late summer, there's a very powerful |
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of that mythological connection. |
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The monsoon has arrived. |
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These torrential storms contribute over |
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in just a few weeks. |
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A destructive power is unleashed |
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one that echoes the descent of Ganga |
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All this mud and rock, |
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is destined to become the river's |
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Over 2 billion tons of sediment |
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by the monsoon floods, |
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creating and replenishing |
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Right across the mountains, |
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the floodwaters |
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On this tumultuous descent, |
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Each confluence, or prayag, |
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marking points where Ganga's waters, |
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once dispersed by the locks of Shiva, |
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The most important of all |
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But bathing here during the monsoon |
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Devprayag is significant |
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The rivers that meet here |
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the Alaknanda and the Baghirathi. |
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But downstream from this promontory, |
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the larger river is officially called |
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The river may have reached |
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but there's life in her yet. |
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This region is known as |
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These are the ancient remnants of |
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rock the powerful Ganges has been |
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Now the river's character |
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The rapids become separated |
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of deeper, more placid water. |
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The first large towns |
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The 120-metre long |
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spans the Ganges |
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Every day, thousands pass |
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going about their daily business. |
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Although not everyone uses |
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The chaos of the bridge is ripe |
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and the resident macaques know just how |
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They miss little, |
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and there's nothing subtle |
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If begging doesn't work, |
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They may not have the same protection |
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but Hinduism has |
| 00:43:11 |
And so they are tolerated. |
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Their antics just an accepted, |
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if annoying, part of everyday life |
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The Rishikesh macaques span two worlds. |
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With one foot in the Shivalik forests |
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they are one of the many creatures |
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But just as the pace of life |
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the river begins to slow. |
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As the gradient slackens, |
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begin to wander across |
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The animals of the high Himalaya |
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and the river gathers |
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animals better able to use the slower, |
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Forests now cloak the banks, |
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providing sanctuary for some of |
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Some will be intimately connected |
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for the rest of her long journey |
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A few are thriving. |
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Others now have only a tenuous foothold |
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For the moment, smooth-coated otters |
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in the foothill streams. |
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But for how much longer is hard to tell. |
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As people press in on all sides, |
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these creatures must find their way |
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Still only 150 miles from |
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the Ganges finally bursts |
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out onto the plains. |
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Haridwar is one of |
| 00:46:14 |
drawing Hindu pilgrims |
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to celebrate and worship |
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Every evening, devotees gather |
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to take part in a mass festival |
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In many ways, Haridwar is where |
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Upstream she is |
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her sources shrouded |
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Only at Haridwar are those |
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into one potent, powerful river |
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Now the Ganges enters a very different, |
| 00:47:12 |
in which her sacred waters |
| 00:47:16 |
irrigate vast fields, |
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and nourish the bodies, |
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of over half a billion people. |
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These nightly gatherings are just |
| 00:47:55 |
as the Ganges embarks on the next stage |
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At Haridwar, the Daughter of |
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to become Ganga Ma, Mother Ganges, |
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India's river of life. |
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These sacred waters, |
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have always nourished |
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And the lives of the people |
| 00:00:42 |
have long been |
| 00:00:48 |
But how did this intimate relationship |
| 00:00:52 |
as waves of people |
| 00:01:01 |
Which creatures adapted |
| 00:01:06 |
And which ones vanished forever |
| 00:01:25 |
The Ganges flows across the plains |
| 00:01:31 |
And even today, |
| 00:01:34 |
offers tantalizing glimpses |
| 00:01:39 |
of this most bountiful river. |
| 00:01:56 |
Once every 12 years, 50 million people |
| 00:02:02 |
for the Kumbh Mela. |
| 00:02:06 |
This Hindu festival |
| 00:02:10 |
Yet it's only a fraction of |
| 00:02:14 |
that the river supports. |
| 00:02:17 |
One out of every 10 people on our planet |
| 00:02:23 |
And the fertile waters |
| 00:02:38 |
But the human crowds on the plains |
| 00:02:44 |
This was once India's great wilderness. |
| 00:02:54 |
The river Ganges ends |
| 00:02:58 |
and originates |
| 00:03:02 |
But between these extremes, |
| 00:03:04 |
she cuts a 1,500-mile course |
| 00:03:10 |
This vast expanse of lowland |
| 00:03:22 |
The river first meets the plains |
| 00:03:40 |
As the fast-flowing mountain torrents |
| 00:03:44 |
they slow and spread out |
| 00:03:53 |
This lush wilderness |
| 00:03:56 |
and it's one of India's |
| 00:04:05 |
The grass here |
| 00:04:11 |
Tall enough to conceal |
| 00:04:26 |
Today, most of the Terai around |
| 00:04:30 |
But isolated pockets still flourish |
| 00:04:33 |
in the far reaches |
| 00:04:41 |
These grasslands are the last stronghold |
| 00:04:45 |
which once roamed throughout the plains. |
| 00:04:57 |
With so much to graze upon, |
| 00:05:03 |
And where there's this much prey, |
| 00:05:15 |
Tigers are surprisingly at home |
| 00:05:19 |
And such prolific hunting grounds |
| 00:05:21 |
enable them to grow into |
| 00:05:33 |
The last fragments of |
| 00:05:37 |
of just how rich the banks of the Ganges |
| 00:05:44 |
And it was a wilderness like this |
| 00:05:48 |
over 40,000 years ago. |
| 00:05:53 |
When nomadic hunter-gatherers |
| 00:05:57 |
they encountered a river |
| 00:06:00 |
that they decided to settle |
| 00:06:10 |
Today, many people still make a living |
| 00:06:14 |
Fishing in ways unchanged |
| 00:06:32 |
As more and more people arrived |
| 00:06:36 |
they began exploring further |
| 00:06:44 |
Beyond the Terai, the river transforms |
| 00:06:48 |
that meanders slowly eastwards |
| 00:06:56 |
To consider the Ganges as a single river |
| 00:06:59 |
Because throughout her journey, |
| 00:07:01 |
she's joined |
| 00:07:04 |
many of them large rivers |
| 00:07:13 |
The southern tributaries are fed |
| 00:07:17 |
And they tumble from this higher land |
| 00:07:27 |
But there's another tributary that flows |
| 00:07:39 |
The deserts of western India may seem |
| 00:07:45 |
yet this is where the Chambal is born. |
| 00:07:50 |
Fed by underground springs, |
| 00:07:53 |
some of India's most arid lands |
| 00:08:01 |
Though some people |
| 00:08:03 |
the Chambal remains a wildlife oasis |
| 00:08:06 |
for the natural treasures |
| 00:08:20 |
Some migrant birds, such as |
| 00:08:25 |
fly all the way across the Himalaya |
| 00:08:37 |
Others, like spoonbills, |
| 00:08:52 |
Indian skimmers are also seen here |
| 00:08:55 |
fishing the well-stocked river. |
| 00:09:06 |
This is one of only a few places |
| 00:09:09 |
where these graceful birds |
| 00:09:12 |
trawling for fish |
| 00:09:38 |
Human influence on the Chambal |
| 00:09:41 |
But today, |
| 00:09:45 |
when just a few early settlers |
| 00:09:49 |
with their natural neighbours. |
| 00:10:00 |
As night falls over the desert, |
| 00:10:02 |
the Chambal's most unusual inhabitants |
| 00:10:22 |
On warm May nights, |
| 00:10:26 |
haul themselves far up the sandy banks |
| 00:10:33 |
(SQUAWKING) |
| 00:10:35 |
This female gharial is responding |
| 00:10:39 |
telling her |
| 00:10:44 |
Yet they're still within eggs |
| 00:10:47 |
and they need their mother |
| 00:11:01 |
As few as 200 of these extraordinary |
| 00:11:06 |
So this precious brood |
| 00:11:11 |
for the endangered gharial. |
| 00:11:18 |
Now exposed, |
| 00:11:22 |
and instinct drives them |
| 00:11:39 |
But even here, monsters lurk. |
| 00:11:43 |
Male gharial |
| 00:11:46 |
also inhabit these waters, |
| 00:11:58 |
The gharial's formidable-looking jaws |
| 00:12:01 |
are actually specialised |
| 00:12:04 |
A thin profile allows them to snap shut |
| 00:12:11 |
But in the shadowy light, |
| 00:12:13 |
a small hatchling |
| 00:12:20 |
During the early days of life, |
| 00:12:27 |
Gharials may be cold-blooded, |
| 00:12:35 |
For six months, |
| 00:12:38 |
and even share baby-sitting duties |
| 00:12:41 |
to allow each other |
| 00:12:57 |
Rain-fed tributaries such as the Chambal |
| 00:12:59 |
play a small part |
| 00:13:03 |
But the majority of her water |
| 00:13:10 |
Throughout her journey |
| 00:13:12 |
the Ganges remains |
| 00:13:16 |
and she's continually fed by rivers |
| 00:13:18 |
that flow from |
| 00:13:37 |
Water from many of |
| 00:13:40 |
including Mount Everest, |
| 00:13:50 |
Up here, the most important |
| 00:13:55 |
but ice. |
| 00:14:02 |
This glacial meltwater |
| 00:14:06 |
to the arid plains, |
| 00:14:15 |
Almost half of the water in the Ganges |
| 00:14:20 |
And these northern tributaries |
| 00:14:24 |
an even more precious gift. |
| 00:14:29 |
By May, temperatures on the plains |
| 00:14:37 |
Despite her meltwater supply, |
| 00:14:45 |
And the searing sun bakes the earth dry. |
| 00:14:54 |
Just as the stifling heat |
| 00:14:58 |
change is in the air. |
| 00:15:04 |
As ocean winds carry moist air |
| 00:15:08 |
clouds begin to fill the summer sky. |
| 00:15:12 |
Laden with moisture, |
| 00:15:15 |
until finally, around mid-June, |
| 00:15:20 |
(THUNDER CLAPPING) |
| 00:15:37 |
These are anything but grey days. |
| 00:15:40 |
The monsoon rejuvenates life |
| 00:15:43 |
and it's welcomed by all. |
| 00:15:52 |
The torrential downpours |
| 00:15:56 |
and most of this water |
| 00:16:06 |
Rainfall on the Himalaya |
| 00:16:08 |
transforms mountain streams |
| 00:16:12 |
which carve their way |
| 00:16:17 |
These sediment-laden waters |
| 00:16:20 |
until she can hold no more. |
| 00:16:25 |
The river bursts her banks, |
| 00:16:33 |
As the monsoon fades, |
| 00:16:35 |
the receding floodwaters |
| 00:16:43 |
Mud. |
| 00:16:46 |
Each monsoon, the Ganges collects |
| 00:16:50 |
of mineral-rich sediment from |
| 00:17:01 |
Over millions of years, this has created |
| 00:17:05 |
which in some places |
| 00:17:22 |
For millennia, the fertile land |
| 00:17:24 |
and year-round water supply |
| 00:17:27 |
have enabled the people of the plains to |
| 00:17:40 |
As farming flourished, |
| 00:17:44 |
the miraculous life-giving powers |
| 00:17:54 |
The seeds of a new religion were sown. |
| 00:17:58 |
People revered the natural forces |
| 00:18:04 |
And one plant was considered |
| 00:18:12 |
Rice. |
| 00:18:14 |
Perfectly adapted to grow |
| 00:18:18 |
It's been the staple food |
| 00:18:23 |
Today, paddy fields |
| 00:18:27 |
And so much rice is grown here |
| 00:18:29 |
that the area has become known |
| 00:18:40 |
The rise of farming |
| 00:18:43 |
it also offered a home to new creatures. |
| 00:18:50 |
The people of the Ganges have |
| 00:18:54 |
and put them to use in ingenious ways. |
| 00:19:00 |
Duck herding is an ancient |
| 00:19:06 |
So many ducks lay a lot of eggs, |
| 00:19:09 |
and the herders are also paid to |
| 00:19:16 |
As the ducks feed, they clear the weeds |
| 00:19:20 |
and their droppings add |
| 00:19:29 |
Yet it isn't just domestic animals |
| 00:19:33 |
The wetlands around the paddy fields |
| 00:19:36 |
make an ideal home |
| 00:19:41 |
And one visitor to these fields |
| 00:19:52 |
Standing as high as a man, |
| 00:19:55 |
the Sarus crane |
| 00:20:02 |
(CAWING) |
| 00:20:03 |
These magnificent birds pair for life, |
| 00:20:06 |
and their faithful nature |
| 00:20:09 |
as symbols of marital bliss. |
| 00:20:16 |
To help strengthen their partnerships, |
| 00:20:19 |
the cranes perform |
| 00:21:32 |
Although some animals thrived |
| 00:21:35 |
many were not so well-adapted |
| 00:21:40 |
And not all made |
| 00:21:48 |
But at this time, |
| 00:21:52 |
within an endless sea of dense forest |
| 00:21:59 |
This untamed jungle teemed with animals, |
| 00:22:03 |
some of which might seem more at home |
| 00:22:12 |
It's often forgotten |
| 00:22:15 |
once prowled these plains. |
| 00:22:19 |
But how long |
| 00:22:22 |
share the land |
| 00:22:42 |
Settlements were springing up |
| 00:22:46 |
And the river provided |
| 00:22:49 |
through the otherwise |
| 00:22:57 |
As traffic on the river increased, |
| 00:22:59 |
small trading posts |
| 00:23:05 |
Within these towns, |
| 00:23:09 |
And religion grew more elaborate. |
| 00:23:22 |
Hinduism evolved |
| 00:23:26 |
absorbing the local reverence for nature |
| 00:23:35 |
But the river always remained |
| 00:23:44 |
And soon she came to be worshipped |
| 00:23:52 |
Ganga, the goddess of creation |
| 00:24:01 |
And there's one point along her waters |
| 00:24:03 |
that's considered sacred |
| 00:24:11 |
Varanasi lies about halfway |
| 00:24:16 |
on the only stretch that turns |
| 00:24:20 |
in which she was born. |
| 00:24:31 |
Varanasi is the most ancient city |
| 00:24:36 |
And it has long been deeply intertwined |
| 00:24:42 |
The orientation of the river |
| 00:24:44 |
allows a long series of bathing ghats |
| 00:24:50 |
illuminating the thousands of pilgrims |
| 00:24:54 |
to pray in the hallowed waters. |
| 00:25:16 |
The animist origins of the religion |
| 00:25:19 |
ensured animals a powerful role |
| 00:25:25 |
Ganesh, the elephant god, |
| 00:25:29 |
and Hanuman, the monkey warrior, |
| 00:25:31 |
are the most celebrated deities |
| 00:25:37 |
But Hindus also associate |
| 00:25:45 |
So many animals have been incorporated |
| 00:25:50 |
that exactly which creatures |
| 00:25:54 |
is open to interpretation. |
| 00:26:00 |
One man's deity |
| 00:26:11 |
Considering 20,000 Indians die each year |
| 00:26:16 |
it's no surprise that the people |
| 00:26:31 |
But not everywhere. |
| 00:26:35 |
In a few places within the flood plain, |
| 00:26:37 |
the religious significance of cobras |
| 00:26:51 |
Though deadly, |
| 00:26:55 |
can be found slithering freely |
| 00:27:26 |
Believing they've been |
| 00:27:28 |
to overcome the effects of the venom, |
| 00:27:30 |
the villagers |
| 00:27:43 |
Bites do inevitably, and regularly, |
| 00:27:47 |
but the victims always refuse |
| 00:27:56 |
Instead, they rely on faith healing. |
| 00:28:07 |
It's claimed that no one in the village |
| 00:28:15 |
Even children appear to make |
| 00:28:22 |
Though the real truth |
| 00:28:25 |
remains shrouded in mystery, |
| 00:28:28 |
it's a powerful testament |
| 00:28:32 |
amongst Hindu devotees. |
| 00:28:45 |
Hinduism rapidly spread |
| 00:28:49 |
And it has proved to be a valuable ally |
| 00:29:08 |
As well as honouring animal deities, |
| 00:29:10 |
the faith also teaches |
| 00:29:19 |
In flood plain towns, |
| 00:29:23 |
it's remarkable how much tolerance |
| 00:29:26 |
their many natural neighbours. |
| 00:29:34 |
Rhesus macaques are far from |
| 00:29:38 |
In fact, their mischievous nature |
| 00:29:45 |
The urban troops get up to |
| 00:29:49 |
but it's their smash-and-grab approach |
| 00:30:42 |
Once again, the light-fingered macaques |
| 00:30:52 |
Yet, for the local people, |
| 00:30:54 |
these animal encounters |
| 00:31:01 |
Over millennia, |
| 00:31:04 |
offered the river and her |
| 00:31:10 |
But around a thousand years ago, |
| 00:31:19 |
Waves of Muslim invaders |
| 00:31:22 |
and their influence |
| 00:31:28 |
As well as introducing Islam to India, |
| 00:31:31 |
they brought new ideas |
| 00:31:41 |
The Mughals were the last |
| 00:31:45 |
And their legacy lives on |
| 00:31:47 |
in the most spectacular architecture |
| 00:31:55 |
The intricate detailing |
| 00:31:58 |
displays the Mughals' fascination |
| 00:32:04 |
But their attitude to nature |
| 00:32:10 |
Their scientific heritage compelled them |
| 00:32:16 |
Around their palaces and tombs, |
| 00:32:21 |
which they stocked with game |
| 00:32:29 |
Coming from the barren deserts |
| 00:32:32 |
the Mughals were enchanted |
| 00:32:40 |
They were keen observers |
| 00:32:43 |
and are considered to have been |
| 00:32:53 |
But they were even more passionate |
| 00:33:01 |
The Mughals were obsessive hunters. |
| 00:33:05 |
And the more formidable the quarry, |
| 00:33:07 |
the greater the respect |
| 00:33:12 |
Mughal nobility competed |
| 00:33:17 |
and many notched up prodigious totals. |
| 00:33:22 |
But the impact their hunting had |
| 00:33:26 |
would pale in comparison |
| 00:33:36 |
The British came to India |
| 00:33:40 |
and they were quick to realise |
| 00:33:44 |
Agriculture grew to be big business, |
| 00:33:54 |
Large carnivores |
| 00:33:58 |
and bounties were put on their heads. |
| 00:34:03 |
Today, only 350 lions |
| 00:34:08 |
But they've been wiped out entirely |
| 00:34:18 |
The Indian Cheetah fared even worse. |
| 00:34:21 |
And by the middle of the 20th century, |
| 00:34:34 |
Although hunting dealt a serious blow |
| 00:34:38 |
the habitat destruction under |
| 00:34:44 |
Elephants were put to work, |
| 00:34:46 |
plundering the very forest |
| 00:34:52 |
But while the wilderness |
| 00:34:54 |
India was hurtling towards |
| 00:35:03 |
Timber was in huge demand, |
| 00:35:06 |
especially for |
| 00:35:10 |
During the 1870s, one million sleepers |
| 00:35:15 |
for the new lines springing up |
| 00:35:22 |
By the time the British left |
| 00:35:27 |
almost all the forests of the plains |
| 00:35:31 |
and the elephants living within them |
| 00:35:38 |
Today, as machinery is increasingly used |
| 00:35:42 |
even working elephants |
| 00:35:48 |
But there's still one place |
| 00:35:51 |
where these powerful beasts of burden |
| 00:36:04 |
The Sonpur Mela |
| 00:36:08 |
It started over a thousand years ago, |
| 00:36:18 |
On the first full moon in November, |
| 00:36:20 |
people arrive from all over |
| 00:36:32 |
The sheer quantity of domestic animals |
| 00:36:34 |
affirms their status |
| 00:36:49 |
Sonpur's lively horse market |
| 00:36:53 |
for the festival crowds. |
| 00:37:05 |
But it's the elephants |
| 00:37:11 |
Each morning, the mahouts |
| 00:37:15 |
to be washed alongside |
| 00:37:19 |
creating one of the most |
| 00:37:30 |
The intimate relationship |
| 00:37:33 |
had endured for millennia. |
| 00:37:35 |
And these animals |
| 00:37:42 |
In good condition, elephants are sold |
| 00:37:46 |
so it pays to look after them well. |
| 00:37:51 |
Life for captive elephants |
| 00:37:54 |
than it is for the remaining wild herds |
| 00:38:02 |
The Ganges |
| 00:38:06 |
through the endless farmland |
| 00:38:19 |
It's autumn time and the rice is |
| 00:38:28 |
But in certain areas of Bengal, |
| 00:38:30 |
the villagers hurry |
| 00:38:32 |
before the rice is fully ripened. |
| 00:38:37 |
Night is falling |
| 00:38:44 |
They must prepare |
| 00:38:47 |
that strike under the cover of darkness. |
| 00:38:52 |
It is a war that will be waged |
| 00:38:59 |
Lookouts scan |
| 00:39:03 |
while the rest of the men |
| 00:39:12 |
The enemy is marching |
| 00:39:15 |
But they're too distant |
| 00:39:20 |
Only image-intensifying cameras |
| 00:39:23 |
reveal the true nature |
| 00:39:34 |
Led by the normally solitary males, |
| 00:39:36 |
smaller groups join forces |
| 00:39:40 |
with enough might |
| 00:39:47 |
Their joy at finding food |
| 00:39:53 |
Farming has claimed so much wilderness |
| 00:39:57 |
that the few remaining wild herds |
| 00:40:11 |
(MAN YELLING) |
| 00:40:13 |
(SPEAKING IN BENGALl) |
| 00:40:18 |
(ALL YELLING) |
| 00:40:21 |
The villagers |
| 00:40:24 |
before they lose too much of their crop. |
| 00:40:28 |
But it's a dangerous mission. |
| 00:40:31 |
These hungry and desperate elephants |
| 00:40:40 |
(ELEPHANTS TRUMPETING) |
| 00:40:46 |
The same people that revere Ganesh, |
| 00:40:49 |
have little choice but to do battle |
| 00:41:04 |
Every year in Bengal alone, |
| 00:41:06 |
the conflict can claim |
| 00:41:21 |
Tonight, most of the crop |
| 00:41:25 |
But the elephants are still hungry |
| 00:41:27 |
and long-term peace |
| 00:41:43 |
As the Ganges continues through Bengal, |
| 00:41:46 |
a major channel |
| 00:41:49 |
splits from the main waterway |
| 00:41:54 |
Before the Hooghly |
| 00:41:57 |
it passes through Calcutta, |
| 00:42:00 |
the largest city in eastern India. |
| 00:42:06 |
Once the capital of the British Raj, |
| 00:42:09 |
today this seething metropolis |
| 00:42:18 |
Technology and industry rule here, |
| 00:42:22 |
into one of the fastest-growing |
| 00:42:31 |
Calcutta is a fry cry from wilderness, |
| 00:42:38 |
And all these people |
| 00:42:41 |
for almost all the produce they consume. |
| 00:43:06 |
For many animals, the pace of life |
| 00:43:11 |
but some are more than able to keep up. |
| 00:43:19 |
Even in the most man-made environments, |
| 00:43:21 |
India's wildlife |
| 00:43:45 |
This may seem an unlikely setting |
| 00:43:50 |
but these mountains of waste |
| 00:43:54 |
on what others discard. |
| 00:43:59 |
It's an uncomfortable reality |
| 00:44:02 |
that some have so little, |
| 00:44:10 |
Yet, for others, |
| 00:44:18 |
Black kites are expert scavengers |
| 00:44:21 |
and they swarm in their thousands |
| 00:44:23 |
scanning for rich pickings |
| 00:44:36 |
For opportunists who can compete |
| 00:44:40 |
this is a way of life |
| 00:45:07 |
Since people first arrived here, |
| 00:45:09 |
life on the Ganges plains |
| 00:45:16 |
Yet it's always remained abundant, |
| 00:45:19 |
and the river's gift of life |
| 00:45:23 |
But for how long |
| 00:45:41 |
When a Hindu leaves this world, |
| 00:45:44 |
the most auspicious place to be cremated |
| 00:45:54 |
Here, the body returns |
| 00:46:08 |
The soul is absolved of sin |
| 00:46:13 |
to ensure a safe passage |
| 00:46:30 |
Through the eternal cycle of life, |
| 00:46:35 |
the Ganges remains at the very heart |
| 00:46:39 |
And it's this sacred connection |
| 00:46:43 |
that can still save her |
| 00:46:51 |
As a new dawn rises over the river, |
| 00:46:59 |
The demands of a growing population |
| 00:47:01 |
are poisoning her waters |
| 00:47:08 |
But all is not lost. |
| 00:47:19 |
The Ganges river dolphin |
| 00:47:21 |
is one of the most majestic creatures |
| 00:47:26 |
And it has survived the many changes |
| 00:47:35 |
Today, like so many animals |
| 00:47:38 |
these ancient mammals |
| 00:47:46 |
But that any dolphins survive at all |
| 00:47:48 |
brings hope that people can still |
| 00:47:58 |
As the river approaches |
| 00:48:02 |
she enters her final incarnation. |
| 00:48:08 |
The Ganges becomes a vast waterway |
| 00:48:12 |
and unleashes her awesome power |
| 00:48:18 |
and take it away. |
| 01:15:18 |
Considering 20,000 Indians die each year |
| 01:15:23 |
it's no surprise that the people |
| 01:15:37 |
But not everywhere. |
| 01:15:42 |
In a few places within the flood plain, |
| 01:15:44 |
the religious significance of cobras |
| 01:15:58 |
Though deadly, |
| 01:16:02 |
can be found slithering freely |
| 01:16:32 |
Believing they've been |
| 01:16:35 |
to overcome the effects of the venom, |
| 01:16:37 |
the villagers |
| 01:16:50 |
Bites do inevitably, and regularly, |
| 01:16:54 |
but the victims always refuse |
| 01:17:03 |
Instead, they rely on faith healing. |
| 01:17:14 |
It's claimed that no one in the village |
| 01:17:22 |
Even children appear to make |
| 01:17:29 |
Though the real truth |
| 01:17:32 |
remains shrouded in mystery, |
| 01:17:35 |
it's a powerful testament |
| 01:17:39 |
amongst Hindu devotees. |
| 01:17:52 |
Hinduism rapidly spread |
| 01:17:56 |
And it has proved to be a valuable ally |
| 01:18:14 |
As well as honouring animal deities, |
| 01:18:17 |
the faith also teaches |
| 01:18:26 |
In flood plain towns, |
| 01:18:30 |
it's remarkable how much tolerance |
| 01:18:33 |
their many natural neighbours. |
| 01:18:41 |
Rhesus macaques are far from |
| 01:18:45 |
In fact, their mischievous nature |
| 01:18:52 |
The urban troops get up to |
| 01:18:56 |
but it's their smash-and-grab approach |
| 01:19:49 |
Once again, the light-fingered macaques |
| 01:19:59 |
Yet, for the local people, |
| 01:20:01 |
these animal encounters |
| 01:20:07 |
Over millennia, |
| 01:20:11 |
offered the river and her |
| 01:20:17 |
But around a thousand years ago, |
| 01:20:26 |
Waves of Muslim invaders |
| 01:20:29 |
and their influence |
| 01:20:35 |
As well as introducing Islam to India, |
| 01:20:38 |
they brought new ideas |
| 01:20:47 |
The Mughals were the last |
| 01:20:51 |
And their legacy lives on |
| 01:20:53 |
in the most spectacular architecture |
| 01:21:02 |
The intricate detailing |
| 01:21:05 |
displays the Mughals' fascination |
| 01:21:11 |
But their attitude to nature |
| 01:21:16 |
Their scientific heritage compelled them |
| 01:21:23 |
Around their palaces and tombs, |
| 01:21:28 |
which they stocked with game |
| 01:21:36 |
Coming from the barren deserts |
| 01:21:39 |
the Mughals were enchanted |
| 01:21:47 |
They were keen observers |
| 01:21:50 |
and are considered to have been |
| 01:22:00 |
But they were even more passionate |
| 01:22:08 |
The Mughals were obsessive hunters. |
| 01:22:12 |
And the more formidable the quarry, |
| 01:22:14 |
the greater the respect |
| 01:22:19 |
Mughal nobility competed |
| 01:22:24 |
and many notched up prodigious totals. |
| 01:22:29 |
But the impact their hunting had |
| 01:22:32 |
would pale in comparison |
| 01:22:43 |
The British came to India |
| 01:22:47 |
and they were quick to realise |
| 01:22:51 |
Agriculture grew to be big business, |
| 01:23:01 |
Large carnivores |
| 01:23:05 |
and bounties were put on their heads. |
| 01:23:10 |
Today, only 350 lions |
| 01:23:15 |
But they've been wiped out entirely |
| 01:23:25 |
The Indian Cheetah fared even worse. |
| 01:23:28 |
And by the middle of the 20th century, |
| 01:23:41 |
Although hunting dealt a serious blow |
| 01:23:45 |
the habitat destruction under |
| 01:23:51 |
Elephants were put to work, |
| 01:23:53 |
plundering the very forest |
| 01:23:59 |
But while the wilderness |
| 01:24:01 |
India was hurtling towards |
| 01:24:10 |
Timber was in huge demand, |
| 01:24:12 |
especially for |
| 01:24:17 |
During the 1870s, one million sleepers |
| 01:24:22 |
for the new lines springing up |
| 01:24:29 |
By the time the British left |
| 01:24:34 |
almost all the forests of the plains |
| 01:24:37 |
and the elephants living within them |
| 01:24:45 |
Today, as machinery is increasingly used |
| 01:24:49 |
even working elephants |
| 01:24:55 |
But there's still one place |
| 01:24:58 |
where these powerful beasts of burden |
| 01:25:11 |
The Sonpur Mela |
| 01:25:15 |
It started over a thousand years ago, |
| 01:25:24 |
On the first full moon in November, |
| 01:25:27 |
people arrive from all over |
| 01:25:39 |
The sheer quantity of domestic animals |
| 01:25:41 |
affirms their status |
| 01:25:56 |
Sonpur's lively horse market |
| 01:26:00 |
for the festival crowds. |
| 01:26:12 |
But it's the elephants |
| 01:26:18 |
Each morning, the mahouts |
| 01:26:22 |
to be washed alongside |
| 01:26:26 |
creating one of the most |
| 01:26:37 |
The intimate relationship |
| 01:26:40 |
had endured for millennia. |
| 01:26:42 |
And these animals |
| 01:26:48 |
In good condition, elephants are sold |
| 01:26:53 |
so it pays to look after them well. |
| 01:26:57 |
Life for captive elephants |
| 01:27:01 |
than it is for the remaining wild herds |
| 01:27:09 |
The Ganges |
| 01:27:12 |
through the endless farmland |
| 01:27:26 |
It's autumn time and the rice is |
| 01:27:34 |
But in certain areas of Bengal, |
| 01:27:37 |
the villagers hurry |
| 01:27:39 |
before the rice is fully ripened. |
| 01:27:44 |
Night is falling |
| 01:27:51 |
They must prepare |
| 01:27:54 |
that strike under the cover of darkness. |
| 01:27:59 |
It is a war that will be waged |
| 01:28:06 |
Lookouts scan |
| 01:28:10 |
while the rest of the men |
| 01:28:19 |
The enemy is marching |
| 01:28:22 |
But they're too distant |
| 01:28:27 |
Only image-intensifying cameras |
| 01:28:29 |
reveal the true nature |
| 01:28:41 |
Led by the normally solitary males, |
| 01:28:43 |
smaller groups join forces |
| 01:28:47 |
with enough might |
| 01:28:54 |
Their joy at finding food |
| 01:29:00 |
Farming has claimed so much wilderness |
| 01:29:04 |
that the few remaining wild herds |
| 01:29:18 |
(MAN YELLING) |
| 01:29:20 |
(SPEAKING IN BENGALl) |
| 01:29:25 |
(ALL YELLING) |
| 01:29:28 |
The villagers |
| 01:29:30 |
before they lose too much of their crop. |
| 01:29:35 |
But it's a dangerous mission. |
| 01:29:38 |
These hungry and desperate elephants |
| 01:29:47 |
(ELEPHANTS TRUMPETING) |
| 01:29:53 |
The same people that revere Ganesh, |
| 01:29:56 |
have little choice but to do battle |
| 01:30:11 |
Every year in Bengal alone, |
| 01:30:13 |
the conflict can claim |
| 01:30:28 |
Tonight, most of the crop |
| 01:30:32 |
But the elephants are still hungry |
| 01:30:34 |
and long-term peace |
| 01:30:50 |
As the Ganges continues through Bengal, |
| 01:30:53 |
a major channel |
| 01:30:55 |
splits from the main waterway |
| 01:31:01 |
Before the Hooghly |
| 01:31:04 |
it passes through Calcutta, |
| 01:31:07 |
the largest city in eastern India. |
| 01:31:13 |
Once the capital of the British Raj, |
| 01:31:16 |
today this seething metropolis |
| 01:31:25 |
Technology and industry rule here, |
| 01:31:29 |
into one of the fastest-growing |
| 01:31:37 |
Calcutta is a fry cry from wilderness, |
| 01:31:45 |
And all these people |
| 01:31:48 |
for almost all the produce they consume. |
| 01:32:13 |
For many animals, the pace of life |
| 01:32:18 |
but some are more than able to keep up. |
| 01:32:25 |
Even in the most man-made environments, |
| 01:32:28 |
India's wildlife |
| 01:32:52 |
This may seem an unlikely setting |
| 01:32:56 |
but these mountains of waste |
| 01:33:01 |
on what others discard. |
| 01:33:06 |
It's an uncomfortable reality |
| 01:33:09 |
that some have so little, |
| 01:33:16 |
Yet, for others, |
| 01:33:25 |
Black kites are expert scavengers |
| 01:33:28 |
and they swarm in their thousands |
| 01:33:30 |
scanning for rich pickings |
| 01:33:43 |
For opportunists who can compete |
| 01:33:47 |
this is a way of life |
| 01:34:13 |
Since people first arrived here, |
| 01:34:16 |
life on the Ganges plains |
| 01:34:23 |
Yet it's always remained abundant, |
| 01:34:26 |
and the river's gift of life |
| 01:34:30 |
But for how long |
| 01:34:48 |
When a Hindu leaves this world, |
| 01:34:51 |
the most auspicious place to be cremated |
| 01:35:01 |
Here, the body returns |
| 01:35:14 |
The soul is absolved of sin |
| 01:35:20 |
to ensure a safe passage |
| 01:35:37 |
Through the eternal cycle of life, |
| 01:35:41 |
the Ganges remains at the very heart |
| 01:35:46 |
And it's this sacred connection |
| 01:35:50 |
that can still save her |
| 01:35:58 |
As a new dawn rises over the river, |
| 01:36:05 |
The demands of a growing population |
| 01:36:08 |
are poisoning her waters |
| 01:36:14 |
But all is not lost. |
| 01:36:26 |
The Ganges river dolphin |
| 01:36:28 |
is one of the most majestic creatures |
| 01:36:33 |
And it has survived the many changes |
| 01:36:41 |
Today, like so many animals |
| 01:36:45 |
these ancient mammals |
| 01:36:53 |
But that any dolphins survive at all |
| 01:36:55 |
brings hope that people can still |
| 01:37:05 |
As the river approaches |
| 01:37:09 |
she enters her final incarnation. |
| 01:37:15 |
The Ganges becomes a vast waterway |
| 01:37:18 |
and unleashes her awesome power |
| 01:37:24 |
and take it away. |
| 00:00:14 |
across the great plains of Bengal, |
| 00:00:17 |
she is a mighty river, |
| 00:00:25 |
But now, over 1,200 miles |
| 00:00:29 |
the great river begins to break apart. |
| 00:00:35 |
The sacred waters complete |
| 00:00:39 |
through the many channels of the delta, |
| 00:00:42 |
a magical place where the boundaries |
| 00:00:53 |
The delta, shared between the countries |
| 00:00:57 |
is home to the most densely packed |
| 00:01:04 |
But there is also space here |
| 00:01:12 |
Even in the 21 st century, |
| 00:01:14 |
all living things in the delta |
| 00:01:19 |
In just a few months, |
| 00:01:23 |
from near-desert conditions |
| 00:01:25 |
to the violent storms |
| 00:01:34 |
How do people and animals survive |
| 00:01:48 |
Over 100 million people live |
| 00:01:54 |
yet there is one last |
| 00:02:00 |
Where she meets the sea, |
| 00:02:04 |
one of the planet's greatest |
| 00:02:11 |
The animals |
| 00:02:15 |
are only rarely glimpsed. |
| 00:02:27 |
The name of this mysterious forest |
| 00:02:32 |
It's a place where |
| 00:02:46 |
These men have perhaps |
| 00:02:51 |
They are about to embark on a journey |
| 00:02:55 |
but the only protection they will take |
| 00:03:01 |
The men are Muslim, |
| 00:03:04 |
so this morning they are praying |
| 00:03:07 |
(ALL SINGING) |
| 00:03:11 |
Their families know |
| 00:03:19 |
But these brave men |
| 00:03:22 |
to try and reach the forest first. |
| 00:03:39 |
(GUN FIRES) |
| 00:03:45 |
It is the beginning |
| 00:03:47 |
for one of the Ganges delta's |
| 00:04:04 |
For centuries, men from villages |
| 00:04:07 |
have set out on this annual expedition |
| 00:04:11 |
into the heart of the forest they fear. |
| 00:04:20 |
The Sunderbans stretches along |
| 00:04:25 |
It's by far |
| 00:04:29 |
six times the size of Greater London. |
| 00:04:34 |
Mangroves, |
| 00:04:37 |
are the only trees that can cope |
| 00:04:43 |
There are over 30 species of mangrove |
| 00:04:46 |
and the biggest rely |
| 00:04:54 |
Giant Asian honeybees feed on the nectar |
| 00:04:58 |
and, in the process, pollinate them. |
| 00:05:03 |
These are the biggest honeybees |
| 00:05:06 |
and also the most aggressive. |
| 00:05:10 |
They will defend their enormous hive |
| 00:05:17 |
But the precious honey in those hives |
| 00:05:28 |
These men have pushed deep into the maze |
| 00:05:30 |
of over 400 waterways |
| 00:05:39 |
They spread out to search, |
| 00:06:00 |
Many people have been killed |
| 00:06:04 |
Ten metres is the closest |
| 00:06:08 |
(MEN SHOUTING) |
| 00:06:11 |
The threatened bees |
| 00:06:15 |
but the honey collectors |
| 00:06:23 |
When the bees smell smoke, |
| 00:06:25 |
they instinctively behave |
| 00:06:30 |
As far as they're concerned, |
| 00:06:33 |
and there's no point |
| 00:06:39 |
With the bees no longer aggressive, |
| 00:07:02 |
A good hive can contain |
| 00:07:12 |
This is liquid gold for these men, |
| 00:07:14 |
but even though they are poor, |
| 00:07:20 |
Wise collectors know that if there is |
| 00:07:24 |
they should leave |
| 00:07:26 |
so the bees don't have |
| 00:07:30 |
The honey will fetch a high price, |
| 00:07:33 |
but many men pay |
| 00:07:38 |
It's not swarms of bees that make this |
| 00:07:40 |
one of the most dangerous jobs |
| 00:07:47 |
The trails are crisscrossed |
| 00:07:48 |
with the tracks |
| 00:08:01 |
Tigers roam the Sunderbans, |
| 00:08:03 |
and they have a well-earned reputation |
| 00:08:10 |
Honey collectors are especially at risk, |
| 00:08:12 |
because tigers rest |
| 00:08:14 |
where the beehives are also found. |
| 00:08:18 |
Tigers kill up to 100 people |
| 00:08:26 |
Nobody knows |
| 00:08:30 |
The tigers are hardly ever seen |
| 00:08:36 |
The Sunderbans is unlike |
| 00:08:41 |
The biggest prey here, the spotted deer, |
| 00:08:44 |
is only bite-size for a predator |
| 00:08:46 |
that needs an average |
| 00:08:53 |
There's little fresh water here. |
| 00:08:56 |
Some people think drinking salty water |
| 00:09:03 |
How can tigers survive |
| 00:09:08 |
And can anything be done |
| 00:09:16 |
The Sunderbans Tiger Project |
| 00:09:23 |
This team, |
| 00:09:26 |
and expert tracker Mizan Rahman, |
| 00:09:29 |
are going to radio-collar a tiger here |
| 00:09:37 |
They've come deep into the forest |
| 00:09:48 |
The team have heard |
| 00:09:54 |
Adam gets confirmation |
| 00:09:56 |
that a tiger was seen a week ago |
| 00:10:06 |
The team put out bait |
| 00:10:09 |
to try and tranquilise the tiger. |
| 00:10:17 |
Mizan disguises the hide |
| 00:10:23 |
It's a nerve-racking prospect. |
| 00:10:27 |
Nobody knows how a Sunderbans tiger, |
| 00:10:32 |
will react when darted. |
| 00:10:35 |
The team could be in for |
| 00:10:44 |
The Sunderbans is huge, but it's only |
| 00:10:55 |
In the countryside |
| 00:10:57 |
humans are definitely |
| 00:11:02 |
And none of these humans lives very far |
| 00:11:16 |
Mohammed Jaleel is the headman |
| 00:11:19 |
near the edge of the Sunderbans |
| 00:11:21 |
on the banks |
| 00:11:27 |
Like most delta-dwellers, |
| 00:11:30 |
use the river's waters to grow rice. |
| 00:11:37 |
November, early winter, |
| 00:11:41 |
perfect for planting the first |
| 00:11:48 |
Rice paddies have replaced |
| 00:11:51 |
which once covered much of this region. |
| 00:11:54 |
But in some places, the animals |
| 00:11:56 |
that used to live |
| 00:11:58 |
because the farmers recognise |
| 00:12:03 |
Frogs help control |
| 00:12:08 |
And giant apple snails eat the algae |
| 00:12:14 |
Farmers who use |
| 00:12:17 |
don't have to use |
| 00:12:21 |
Each paddy field is an entire ecosystem. |
| 00:12:25 |
And there's always a predator |
| 00:12:31 |
Open-billed storks hunt |
| 00:12:38 |
A healthy population of storks |
| 00:12:43 |
Perhaps for this reason, many Hindus, |
| 00:12:48 |
see the storks as a sign of good luck. |
| 00:12:52 |
When the breeding season approaches, |
| 00:13:05 |
The birds nest |
| 00:13:19 |
The noise can be deafening, |
| 00:13:21 |
and some colonies are |
| 00:13:27 |
The good luck |
| 00:13:30 |
means that the local residents |
| 00:13:39 |
Many of the people in the delta still |
| 00:13:49 |
And these fishermen have perhaps |
| 00:13:56 |
This morning, they're looking for a clue |
| 00:14:03 |
Find the river dolphins |
| 00:14:09 |
But to catch the fish, |
| 00:14:11 |
the men will enlist the help |
| 00:14:14 |
one of the most endearing |
| 00:14:19 |
Otters have been bred |
| 00:14:22 |
and trained |
| 00:14:49 |
The men position the boat |
| 00:14:54 |
Their otters's harnesses |
| 00:14:57 |
which they control with their feet. |
| 00:15:06 |
When everything's ready, |
| 00:15:09 |
and chase the fish |
| 00:15:26 |
The boat is manoeuvred towards the bank, |
| 00:15:35 |
In a morning's work, the men can catch |
| 00:15:46 |
The otters get |
| 00:15:49 |
but not enough yet |
| 00:16:04 |
Otters hunt best when they're hungry, |
| 00:16:09 |
but it takes expert net handling |
| 00:16:11 |
to stop them taking |
| 00:16:17 |
Only when the fishermen have finished |
| 00:16:33 |
Even if the catch is poor, |
| 00:16:41 |
And the baby otters |
| 00:16:45 |
The fishermen breed their animals |
| 00:16:49 |
to prevent inbreeding. |
| 00:16:51 |
A good young otter can cost $100, |
| 00:16:57 |
But when you make your living |
| 00:17:04 |
All the people of the delta |
| 00:17:08 |
but the wise old heads, |
| 00:17:12 |
know the good times won't last for ever. |
| 00:17:20 |
Fifty miles away, |
| 00:17:23 |
night is falling. |
| 00:17:31 |
It's been a long stakeout, |
| 00:17:36 |
After a week-long wait, |
| 00:17:47 |
Hungry tigers are not above |
| 00:17:56 |
(GUN FIRES) |
| 00:18:01 |
The team have to move fast |
| 00:18:10 |
Night falls quickly in the tropics, |
| 00:18:12 |
and they can't be 100% sure that |
| 00:18:18 |
Somewhere in the blackness is a tiger |
| 00:18:20 |
that may or may not be |
| 00:18:33 |
They can see the tigress, |
| 00:18:38 |
It's a tense moment. |
| 00:18:50 |
When they're satisfied |
| 00:18:53 |
the team have to work fast. |
| 00:19:03 |
While unconscious, |
| 00:19:06 |
so the team rub her with spirit |
| 00:19:15 |
The collar weighs just one kilogram, |
| 00:19:21 |
Studies have shown that it will have |
| 00:19:47 |
Every detail about the tigress |
| 00:19:56 |
She's quite elderly, about 12 years old. |
| 00:20:00 |
Her teeth are worn |
| 00:20:06 |
The team have just a few months |
| 00:20:08 |
before the collar |
| 00:20:11 |
to learn all that they can |
| 00:20:13 |
Where she goes, what she eats |
| 00:20:21 |
Tigers constantly patrol a territory, |
| 00:20:24 |
making sure there are no rival tigers |
| 00:20:27 |
So Adam and Mizan know |
| 00:20:29 |
they'll have to be on the move |
| 00:20:41 |
But these waterways are not |
| 00:20:47 |
The creeks consist partly of seawater |
| 00:20:49 |
so they're under the influence |
| 00:20:53 |
The mangroves' roots anchor the trees |
| 00:20:59 |
It's a constantly changing environment, |
| 00:21:03 |
but some animals are adapted |
| 00:21:30 |
Strange creatures |
| 00:21:33 |
where they've sheltered |
| 00:21:44 |
Mudskippers are fish with specially |
| 00:21:55 |
They feed on detritus |
| 00:22:11 |
Fish need water to breathe, |
| 00:22:13 |
so the mudskippers carry a constant |
| 00:22:17 |
which they have to top up |
| 00:22:25 |
Mudskippers are not the only animals |
| 00:22:36 |
Fiddler crabs sift food particles |
| 00:22:39 |
leaving behind neat balls of leftovers. |
| 00:22:45 |
The male crabs have one huge claw |
| 00:22:47 |
to impress females |
| 00:22:51 |
Mudskippers try the same trick |
| 00:22:56 |
But sometimes intimidation |
| 00:23:07 |
Arguments can get very heated. |
| 00:23:22 |
But the mudskippers lack the weaponry |
| 00:23:28 |
And besides, |
| 00:23:32 |
With every rising tide, the mudskippers |
| 00:23:36 |
or risk being swept away. |
| 00:23:45 |
The height of the tide is determined |
| 00:23:47 |
by the height of the river |
| 00:23:50 |
And as the year goes on, |
| 00:23:59 |
The delta is entering the dry season. |
| 00:24:05 |
It's April |
| 00:24:12 |
Outside the Sunderbans, the farmland |
| 00:24:20 |
The main channels of the river |
| 00:24:23 |
but now it's a long way down. |
| 00:24:34 |
The water level had dropped six metres |
| 00:24:47 |
The exposed riverbanks |
| 00:24:50 |
like these bank mynahs. |
| 00:25:08 |
The river's flow is so weak |
| 00:25:10 |
that boats can be pulled |
| 00:25:15 |
In the fields, the farmers harvest |
| 00:25:17 |
the last of their dry season |
| 00:25:26 |
Pied starlings feast on insects |
| 00:25:35 |
But most animals have buried themselves |
| 00:25:38 |
or left the bone-dry fields entirely. |
| 00:25:44 |
This is a hard time for Mohammed Jaleel |
| 00:25:50 |
They continue to tend their fields, |
| 00:26:07 |
The people of the village earn |
| 00:26:11 |
by digging for sand |
| 00:26:32 |
They are digging |
| 00:26:40 |
Many channels in the delta region |
| 00:26:44 |
because the people upstream |
| 00:26:47 |
for drinking and irrigation. |
| 00:26:49 |
It's the people of the delta who bear |
| 00:26:53 |
all along the river. |
| 00:27:21 |
Even the main channel of the great river |
| 00:27:27 |
The bed of the mighty Ganges |
| 00:27:39 |
Little fresh water now reaches the |
| 00:27:43 |
But the temporary fishing village here |
| 00:27:52 |
This village is only occupied |
| 00:27:56 |
Perfect for drying fish. |
| 00:28:06 |
The seas near the Sunderbans have |
| 00:28:09 |
though these days, intense fishing |
| 00:28:19 |
The need for workers is so great |
| 00:28:21 |
that boys as young as eight |
| 00:28:26 |
The stench from the village attracts |
| 00:28:32 |
Wild boar sneak in |
| 00:28:46 |
It's such a busy time. |
| 00:28:57 |
And night-time is also when the collared |
| 00:29:06 |
In the pitch dark, |
| 00:29:08 |
the fishermen are collecting fresh water |
| 00:29:12 |
With their weak torch, |
| 00:29:13 |
they can't see anything |
| 00:29:21 |
Adam and Mizan have tracked the tigress |
| 00:29:47 |
In this dry season, |
| 00:29:50 |
making use of their waterhole. |
| 00:29:55 |
The team can only see the tigress |
| 00:30:00 |
Her night vision is many times better |
| 00:30:08 |
She's had nothing but salty water |
| 00:30:14 |
Has that made her lose |
| 00:30:21 |
After drinking, |
| 00:30:25 |
where the men and boys |
| 00:30:30 |
In the blackness, |
| 00:30:36 |
But she can see them. |
| 00:30:44 |
It seems she's on patrol. |
| 00:30:46 |
Not hunting, but someone could trigger |
| 00:30:53 |
Tigers usually attack people |
| 00:30:56 |
presenting a smaller target. |
| 00:31:00 |
It is pure luck that nobody is killed. |
| 00:31:13 |
The following morning reveals |
| 00:31:15 |
the tigress came to the village huts. |
| 00:31:19 |
But for the time being, |
| 00:31:21 |
the tiger team don't have to worry |
| 00:31:31 |
The men are leaving, |
| 00:31:34 |
They are leaving |
| 00:31:41 |
The men head off to their home villages |
| 00:31:46 |
Brahminy kites move in |
| 00:32:24 |
With the village deserted, |
| 00:32:25 |
the tigress now patrols |
| 00:32:36 |
The winds strengthen every day |
| 00:32:38 |
as the hot air above the baking land |
| 00:32:42 |
sucking in moist air |
| 00:32:51 |
This is the start of the monsoon. |
| 00:33:00 |
The next few months |
| 00:33:02 |
all across the north |
| 00:33:29 |
And all of this rainwater ends up |
| 00:33:38 |
In just a few days, |
| 00:33:40 |
the flow of the Ganges here |
| 00:33:44 |
till it's more than the flow of all |
| 00:33:52 |
In places, |
| 00:33:56 |
transforming the landscape |
| 00:34:18 |
For most people here, |
| 00:34:26 |
But the rising waters do bring dangers. |
| 00:34:34 |
Cobras and other poisonous snakes |
| 00:34:39 |
They now swim through the paddy fields |
| 00:34:47 |
just as the wet season crop of rice |
| 00:34:57 |
Several thousand people are killed |
| 00:35:01 |
Most of them |
| 00:35:36 |
The snake is just looking |
| 00:35:43 |
And the river is threatening |
| 00:35:48 |
The rising waters |
| 00:36:03 |
A month ago, Mohammed Jaleel's village |
| 00:36:07 |
Now he and his fellow villagers |
| 00:36:12 |
before they're washed away. |
| 00:36:26 |
Erosion can begin suddenly |
| 00:36:33 |
Everybody must be ready to move |
| 00:36:52 |
Hundreds of metres of riverbank land can |
| 00:37:22 |
The whole of Mohammed Jaleel's village |
| 00:37:26 |
in temporary homes |
| 00:37:30 |
along the roadside. |
| 00:37:38 |
The monsoon is battering |
| 00:37:42 |
Huge storms sweep up |
| 00:37:45 |
and hammer the forest. |
| 00:38:26 |
There are breaks in the rain, |
| 00:38:30 |
The river is so swollen |
| 00:38:32 |
that the forest is completely inundated |
| 00:38:38 |
Nowadays, rising sea levels |
| 00:38:42 |
are causing the highest monsoon tides |
| 00:38:45 |
squeezing the wildlife |
| 00:38:52 |
The deer must seek out |
| 00:38:58 |
Many gather on the beach |
| 00:39:09 |
But the tigress is also |
| 00:39:23 |
The deer would rather get their feet wet |
| 00:39:38 |
The monsoon can be a punishing time, |
| 00:39:41 |
but the people and animals of the delta |
| 00:39:45 |
because when the flood waters recede, |
| 00:39:51 |
The whole of the Bengal plain |
| 00:39:55 |
in places, over a mile deep, |
| 00:39:58 |
brought down over millions of years |
| 00:40:04 |
This huge plain is the size |
| 00:40:07 |
but it supports |
| 00:40:10 |
because of the extraordinary richness |
| 00:40:12 |
brought to fisheries and fields |
| 00:40:32 |
Even in 21 st century India, one of |
| 00:40:37 |
the life-giving river is still revered |
| 00:40:41 |
and worshipped in 100 festivals. |
| 00:40:49 |
She is a capricious goddess. |
| 00:40:51 |
The soft mud is easily cut through |
| 00:40:56 |
Thousands of people lose their houses |
| 00:41:22 |
But even for the people made homeless, |
| 00:41:26 |
there is a ray of hope. |
| 00:41:31 |
The Ganges gives as well as taking away. |
| 00:41:35 |
Wherever the river is cutting away mud |
| 00:41:39 |
it is depositing it on the other. |
| 00:41:43 |
Little by little, |
| 00:41:47 |
or even little river islands. |
| 00:41:51 |
Over the years, the islands grow. |
| 00:41:56 |
And in time, |
| 00:42:03 |
People who have lost their land |
| 00:42:05 |
will take advantage of any new farmland |
| 00:42:08 |
no matter how small. |
| 00:42:19 |
The rivers that feed the Ganges |
| 00:42:23 |
to the delta every year. |
| 00:42:25 |
The mud can be seen billowing out to sea |
| 00:42:34 |
In the Sunderbans, the mangrove roots |
| 00:42:42 |
This is a much more productive place |
| 00:42:54 |
Over 300 species of birds, |
| 00:42:56 |
including Lesser adjutant storks |
| 00:43:01 |
exploit the richness of the mud flats. |
| 00:43:07 |
And nine species of kingfishers |
| 00:43:12 |
Nearly 50 species of reptiles |
| 00:43:15 |
including saltwater crocodiles |
| 00:43:23 |
The mud feeds the mangroves |
| 00:43:30 |
Some animals, like macaques, |
| 00:43:34 |
Others, like the spotted deer, |
| 00:43:39 |
This forest, surprisingly, supports |
| 00:43:44 |
and that has exciting implications. |
| 00:43:48 |
There may be enough food here |
| 00:43:52 |
So much food, perhaps, |
| 00:43:54 |
that it seems some tigers don't need |
| 00:44:00 |
(BOAR GRUNTING) |
| 00:44:13 |
Early indications |
| 00:44:16 |
suggest that the Sunderbans might have |
| 00:44:18 |
the greatest concentration |
| 00:44:21 |
Maybe over 300 animals. |
| 00:44:28 |
These tigers need protecting. |
| 00:44:32 |
But so do the people. |
| 00:44:34 |
It's too early to say |
| 00:44:37 |
make these tigers more aggressive. |
| 00:44:40 |
But one thing is clear, |
| 00:44:43 |
don't know how to behave |
| 00:44:47 |
The tiger team are trying |
| 00:44:50 |
"Don't go into the forest alone |
| 00:44:59 |
The fishermen, |
| 00:45:02 |
are building a cage around the waterhole |
| 00:45:04 |
to discourage further visits |
| 00:45:09 |
Protecting all the thousands |
| 00:45:13 |
to catch fish, cut wood, or gather honey |
| 00:45:20 |
But strangely, |
| 00:45:22 |
these livelihoods are only possible |
| 00:45:30 |
Fear of the big cats means |
| 00:45:32 |
that only the bravest venture |
| 00:45:36 |
Without the tigers, |
| 00:45:40 |
and the natural bounty it provides |
| 00:45:49 |
In the Sunderbans, |
| 00:45:52 |
all living things depend |
| 00:45:58 |
On her epic journey from the mountains, |
| 00:46:01 |
she brings fertile mud |
| 00:46:04 |
to fields and forests. |
| 00:46:08 |
The Ganges has fuelled the rise |
| 00:46:12 |
and today supports nearly one tenth |
| 00:46:19 |
But what does the future hold |
| 00:46:23 |
and the lands she has created? |
| 00:46:25 |
By the end of this century, |
| 00:46:27 |
over 10% of the delta might disappear |
| 00:46:31 |
because of climate change. |
| 00:46:36 |
The river itself is also threatened. |
| 00:46:41 |
If the growing population continues |
| 00:46:45 |
at the current rate, |
| 00:46:47 |
then some day, the Ganges |
| 00:46:56 |
There is hope |
| 00:47:00 |
and it's embodied within the reverence |
| 00:47:11 |
Sagar Island is the last land |
| 00:47:18 |
Every January, over a million |
| 00:47:21 |
to give thanks to the river. |
| 00:47:35 |
They bathe at dawn |
| 00:47:39 |
hoping that the sacred waters |
| 00:47:43 |
into the Bay of Bengal. |
| 00:47:49 |
People know that the Ganges is |
| 00:47:53 |
Hopefully, they will fight to keep |
| 00:48:11 |
The future of the river |
| 00:48:15 |
is in the hands of mankind. |
